Hot Springs

The entire volcanic cordon of the Sur Chico [1] is dotted with termas, but there’s a particularly dense concentration in the vicinity of Pucón [2]. Several of them have been turned into retreats or resorts that vary from basic day-use facilities to upscale but not-quite-lavish hotels.

Hotel y Termas Huife

On the Río Liucura northeast of Pucón [2], Termas de Huife is the area’s most upmarket option, a modern chalet-style resort with spa facilities in 40°C waters and offering massage therapy. For US$14 in summer, US$11 the rest of the year, day-trippers can use the outdoor pools. The resort provides its own transportation from Pucón [2] for $25 return, but infrequent buses also pass near the entrance. Restaurant and cafeteria meals are available.

Termas Huife (Gerónimo de Alderete 324, Pucón, tel./fax 045/445970, www.termashuife.cl [3], US$107/159–122/183 s/d) is 30 kilometers northeast of Pucón via Paillaco, on the road to Parque Nacional Huerquehue [4]. The higher rates are in effect mid-December–mid-March only.

Termas Los Pozones

Just two kilometers beyond Huife, the minimalist Termas Los Pozones is a backpacker’s alternative; admission to a series of riverside pools ranging 30–40°C costs US$7 per person in the day time, US$9 per person at night, when some Pucón [2] travel agencies run tours. Bring food and other supplies, as there’s almost nothing on-site. There are usually one or two buses daily.

Termas de Palguín

In 1998 the area’s oldest hot-springs resort, 30 kilometers southeast of Pucón [2] on its namesake river, suffered a major fire that destroyed its landmark hotel. Rebuilt in a less distinctive style on a more modest scale, the current Hotel Termas de Palguín (Casilla 1-D, Pucón, tel. 045/441968, US$74/124 s/d with full board) is once again open year-round; some, though, consider it indifferent toward visitors. For nonguests, admission to the pools or private tubs costs US$9 per person; the restaurant is likewise open to the public.

Termas de Panqui

The area’s most unconventional thermal baths, 58 kilometers from Pucón [2] via the paved road to Curarrehue and an improved gravel road that heads north, Termas de Panqui oozes New Age vibes with its material and spiritual hodgepodge of Mapuche rucas, Lakota tipis, yoga, tai chi, meditation, and full-moon retreats in a rustic setting that, admittedly, has a great deal to offer. There are also hot pools, mud baths, and a vegetarian restaurant.

Day-use admission costs US$10 per person; accommodations include camping (US$10 pp), tipis (US$15 pp), and rather dark hotel rooms (US$20 pp). Transportation can be arranged from Pucón [2] (US$9 pp, tel. 098/9549674). For more information, contact Termas de Panqui (tel. 099/4436741, panquihotsprings [at] hotmail [dot] com).