Hotels

Although Chetumal [1] is by no means a resort town, its status as the state capital and its location on the Belize [2] border make it a busy town. Arrive as early in the day as possible to have your choice of hotel rooms. Better yet, call ahead for a reservation.

Under US$50

Hands down, Hotel Xcalak (Av. 16 de Septiembre at Av. Mahatma Gandhi, tel. 983/129-1708, www.hotelxcalak.com.mx [3], $34 s/d with a/c) is the best budget deal in town: modern rooms with tasteful decor, strong but quiet air-con, SKY TV, and wireless Internet. The on-site restaurant also provides room service (you’ve got to order in person, however). All that, and located just about one block from the Museo de la Cultura Maya [4].

Next door, Hotel Ucúm (Av. Mahatma Gandhi btwn Avs. 5 de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre, tel. 983/832-0711, www.hotelucumchetumal.com [5], US$18 s/d with fan, US$23 s/d with fan and cable TV, US$32 s/d with a/c and cable TV) is an older hotel offering stark, clean rooms. Beds are hit or miss, unfortunately, and some rooms can be downright stuffy (ask for a room on the top floor for the best breeze). There is a refreshing pool on-site with a separate wading area for small children, however, and the parking lot is secure.

US$50–100

A throwback to the mid-1980s, Hotel Caribe Princess Express (Av. Alvaro Obregón btwn Avs. 5 de Mayo and 16 de Septiembre, tel. 983/832-0900, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/831-0232, www.caribeprincesschetumal.com [6], US$42 s with a/c, US$50 d with a/c, US$64 suite with a/c) has comfortable rooms nonetheless, with decent beds, cable TV, and powerful air-con. There’s Wi-Fi in the lobby and a self-serve breakfast (i.e., toast, cereal, fruits) every day. Be sure to ask for a room facing the interior of the building; the karaoke bar in front blasts music—good, bad, and terrible—until the wee hours.

Hotel Los Cocos (Av. de los Héroes at Calle Héroes de Chapultepec, tel. 983/835-0430, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/719-5840, www.hotelloscocos.com.mx [7], US$76–152 s/d with a/c) has pleasant rooms with updated furnishings, cable TV, in-room phone, and quiet air-con. Each category of room has its own style (and wing): modern, sleek, or Mexican villa. Regardless of where guests stay, all have access to the lush garden and inviting, albeit small pool area. There’s also a good open-air restaurant on-site. Wi-Fi in the lobby only.

Over US$100

Don’t be fooled by its name; Holiday Inn Puerta Maya (Av. de los Héroes near Av. Mahatma Gandhi, tel. 983/835-0400, toll-free U.S. tel. 888/465-4329, www.holiday-inn.com/chetumalmex [8], US$128–172 s/d with a/c) offers more than your standard-issue room. It’s downright plush with thick beds, marble floors, wood beam ceilings, and amenities like wireless Internet, security box, and in-room coffeemakers. There’s a gym on-site, as well as a well-maintained pool, which is surrounded by a tropical garden. Kids also stay for free. Be sure to check the website when you book—there often are killer deals.

Outside of Chetumal

On the road to Kohunlich [9] is the luxurious Explorean Kohunlich (tel. 555/201-8350, toll-free Mex. tel. 800/504-5000, toll-free U.S. tel. 800/343-7821, www.theexplorean.com [10], US$265 pp with a/c), an all-inclusive resort boasting 40 deluxe suites set on 30 hectares (74 acres) of jungle property. Each has gleaming stone floors, high palapa ceilings, elegant furnishings, and private stone-walled yards for sunbathing. Two suites also have private plunge pools.

At the main building, there is a fine restaurant (7:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m. daily, US$12–24, open to nonguests), a full-service spa, and a sleek lap pool that overlooks the jungle (you can see the ruins at Kohunlich from here). One excursion per day—rappelling in the jungles of Campeche [11], kayaking through a crocodile reserve, or mountain biking through forgotten forests—is included. Transportation to and from Chetumal [1]’s airport also is thrown in. All told, this is an incredible value.