Several longtime El Pescadero inns change hands each year, and new places are opening each season. The most celebrated opening of late is the high-end Rancho Pescadero. A number of private homes have opened up as vacation rental properties.
On the beach in Pescadero, 3.5 kilometers from the wide dirt road that leaves Mexico 19 across from the Sandbar, the San Pedrito Surf Hotel (www.sanpedritosurf.com , US$70–105) is a remodel of the former Casa Cyrene. Now owned by two families from Hawaii, the property has five casitas. The surf bunkhouse has been converted into a two-bedroom family casita. All have full kitchens and king-size beds. Other amenities include bottled water, basic cooking utensils and spices, and linens. There is a washer/dryer on the property.
Also in a beachfront location and a little south of the San Pedrito Surf Hotel, Casa Simpatica (http://todossantos.cc/casasimpatica.html , US$65, three-night minimum) features four clean, open air casitas, each with a queen-size bed and private bath; guests share an outdoor kitchen. Owner Gary Faulk provides Internet access.
At the San Pedrito surf break, Las Palmas Tropicales (www.tropicalcasitas.com , US$75–140) has five palapa-roof casitas (four with kitchens) with tiled baths and wireless Internet.
Also close to the San Pedrito surf break, friendly Rob and Lorinda Costa from Santa Cruz, California, own Sierra de la Costa (www.sierradelacosta.com , US$75, three-night minimum), super-clean beach bungalow rentals with queen-size beds, tiled baths, private patios, and gas barbecues.
Set back from the water’s edge at Playa Los Cerritos, behind Miguel’s restaurant, Hotelito Los Cardones (Playa Los Cerritos, www.loscardonesbaja.com ) has one oceanview suite (US$50)and a camping palapa area (US$8).
Still farther from the beach but with ocean views, Wi-Fi, and a small swimming pool, Villas de Cerritos (Playa Los Cerritos, tel. 612/151-3728, www.villasdecerritosbeach.com , US$60) has six two-bedroom villa rentals (US$120–160) and several studio bungalows for US$60 per night.
Near the San Pedrito Surf Hotel, El Pozo Hondo (pozohondobcs [at] yahoo [dot] com, US$100–110) is a bed-and-breakfast with two palapa-roof bungalows surrounded by mango, avocado, and citrus trees. Guellermo prepares excellent coffee for guests every morning.
Under the same ownership as the Hacienda Cerritos, the Cerritos Surf Colony (cell tel. 612/107-9935, U.S. tel. 503/926-8131, www.cerritossurfcolony.com; US$95–125) rents a few small bungalows steps from the surf. Introductory prices were set at US$95 for a studio, US$125 for a one-bedroom, and US$295 for a two-bedroom.
Marble floors, robes, Egyptian cotton sheets, and fluffy towels are just a few of the luxury amenities at La Alianza (tel. 612/118-3423, www.bajaturtle.com , US$110–195), a five-room property located between Cerritos and San Pedrito point. Guests share a third-floor palapa-roof deck and common kitchen. A separate two-bedroom casita has one bath and a kitchen for US$150. Commissioned works from local artisan Cuco Moyron add an authentic Baja twist to the grounds and home. This is the place to stay if you want privacy and that extra-special touch. Owner Debora McIntire is involved with local sea turtle conservation activities to protect the leatherbacks and olive ridleys that nest on the beach in Pescadero. Inquire about participating in a baby turtle release August–December.
Sunflowers bordering an organic vegetable garden lean in the breeze along the driveway that leads to Rancho Pescadero (tel. 612/135-5849, www.ranchopescadero.com , US$185–425). Its 26 guestrooms include continental breakfast delivered to your door, daily yoga classes, and the use of two swimming pools, fishing poles, and surfboards. Lounge in daybeds on the beach or book an oceanside massage. A beer lounge on the terrace and lower-level restaurant are open to the public (7 A.M.–9 P.M. daily). No pets or kids under 12. Rancho Pescadero does not have a street address. To find the hotel, turn west on the first main dirt road south of the Pescadero Pemex. Follow this road for a mile toward the ocean and turn right at the T, and signs will point the way from there.
Perched atop Punta Pescadero, the imposing Hacienda Cerritos (Playa Los Cerritos, Km. 65, Mexico 19, cell tel. 612/107-9935, U.S. tel. 503/926-8131, www.haciendacerritos.com , US$295–495) overlooks the beach. This boutique hotel opened in 2010 with four pools, five spas, and 12 suites and bungalows.
Several Todos Santos community websites list vacation rentals in the area. They include www.baja.com , www.bajawesternonion.com , www.todossantos.cc , and www.todosantosguide.com . Vacation Rental by Owner (www.vrbo.com ) also has a few West Cape listings. Here are a few of the most popular homes:
Osprey San Pedrito (Playa San Pedrito, www.bajaosprey.com , US$140–160) is a home divided into three suites, each with its own bedroom, bath, and kitchen. One of the suites on the main level has two bedrooms. The units may be rented separately or together. Cook your own meals in the fully equipped kitchen or walk along the beach to the bar/restaurant at Rancho Pescadero.
Featuring new construction and a location right on the beach, Dr. Roberts Oceanfront Oasis (no tel., www.bajaroberts.com , US$60–120) has a main house that sleeps seven and rents for US$350/night, plus a smaller apartment, surf room, and bungalows for smaller groups. Visit the website to make reservations.
For kids (and the young at heart), the highlight of a stay at Villa del Faro (U.S. tel. 707/468-0876, www.todosantosguide.com/villadelfaro , US$4,000/week) is the curved waterslide that deposits swimmers into a 12-meter saltwater pool rimmed with fiber-optic lights that glow after dark. Located at the south end of Pescadero Beach, the villa was built to handle a crowd, with three kitchens, five bedrooms, and a hot tub, plus massage and maid services and catering available by request. For more entertainment, there is a Ping-Pong table, volleyball court, and 52-inch television.
Between the Los Cerritos and San Pedrito surf breaks, Alhaja de Baja (no tel., www.alhajadebaja.com , US$990/week) is a recently remodeled two-bedroom house with king-size beds.
RV Park Baja Serena (tel. 612/130-3006, US$12) in El Pescadero offers eight spaces with water and sewer hookups (no electricity) that can be rented by the day, week, or month. The entrance is on Mexico 19, just south of Mini Super Los Arcos, and guests check in at the Los Arcos.
Rancho Pilar (Km. 73, no tel., rates vary) has several campsites on the property.
At the moment, camping at Playa Los Cerritos is limited to a site here or there mixed in among the new businesses.
Free beach campsites along Mexico 19 await at the ends of several dirt roads that leave Mexico 19 between Km. 89 and 70—though these are quickly disappearing as developers move in.
On the east side of the highway at Km. 64, Pescadero Surf Camp (tel. 612/134-0480, www.pescaderosurf.com , US$30–60) is a good place for die-hard surfers to meet kindred spirits. Options for lodging include a cabana for six with its own kitchen and bath or camping under a palapa (US$10 pp/night). Guests may use the swimming pool, hot showers, and shared outdoor kitchen.