Estancia Rupai Pacha

From Tapi Aike [1], RN 40 leads southwest past the Hotel Fuentes del Coyle, a bare-bones country inn that’s a local landmark; about 22 kilometers southwest via a detour from the new route, the Sturtzenbaum family’s Estancia Rupai Pacha (Piedra Buena 129, Río Gallegos, tel. 02966/49-4057, www.rupai-pacha.com [2], US$100 s, US$120 d, with breakfast) provides organic produce for El Calafate and raises sheep on 26,000 hectares of rolling steppe.

With views of Torres del Paine [3] to the southwest, it also offers congenial farm-stay accommodations, plus hiking, riding, and especially bird-watching on its marshy lowlands. Founded in 1973, it’s not a historic estancia, but the gardens are a treasure, with delectable raspberries and other fresh fruits in season, and there’s also a handicrafts shop.

About 180 kilometers south of El Calafate [4] and 70 kilometers north of Río Turbio [5], Rupai Pacha is about 10 kilometers west of the new RN 40 from a signed junction. Rates include breakfast, while additional meals cost US$32 pp; there is also a sheltered campground (US$15 d). English and German are spoken.