Despite his blindness, Jorge Luis Borges left vivid descriptions of paintings by Alejandro Schulz Solari, better known as Xul Solar. Obsessed with architecture and the occult, Xul Solar (1897–1963) produced vivid abstract oils and watercolors. This museum displays an assortment of his work, mostly smallish watercolors, in utilitarian surroundings with plasterboard walls and dim light that contrast with the painter’s intense colors. It also shows personal effects, such as postcards directed to famous writers such as Friedrich Nietzsche.
The Museo Xul Solar (Laprida 1212, tel. 011/4821-5378, www.xulsolar.org.ar ) is open noon–7:30 p.m. Tuesday–Friday and noon–7 p.m. Saturday; it’s closed in January. Admission is US$2. 50. Guided tours take place at 4 p.m. Tuesday and Thursday, and 3:30 p.m. Saturday.