Las Peñitas Beach

Traveling several kilometers south along the coast from Poneloya [1] will bring you to a series of accommodations that make up Las Peñitas, presented here in the order from north to south.

Playa Roca (three miles south of Poneloya, tel. 505/8858-3656, www.playaroca.com [2], $6 dorm, $15–40) has two dormitories, eight cozy rooms, and a popular bar-restaurant open till midnight on weekdays and 2 a.m. on weekends. The view of the rocks and the waves is one of the best on the beach and the large pasillo (patio) is ideal for reading, playing pool, and watching the sunset.

Hotel Suyapa Beach (tel. 505/8317-0219 or 505/8885-8345, frobertoreyes [at] yahoo [dot] com, www.suyapabeach.com [3], $21–45) is a modern, well-kept hotel and restaurant with 22 rooms around a small pool. The food and service is here is reportedly the best on the beach.

French-owned Hotelito El Oasis (tel. 505/8839-5344, aixpat426 [at] hotmail [dot] com, www.oasislaspenitas.com [4], $6 dorm, $15 d) has reasonable rates, spacious rooms, and slow service. But what’s the rush? Rooms have fans and private baths. Enjoy the small rancho and hammock area with a great second-story view of the beach. Like most other places on the beach, they rent surfboards and can arrange tours of Isla Juan Venado [5] or Spanish lessons ($4/hour).

Around the corner and past the local bars of Los Cocos and El Calamar, you’ll find the Canadian-owned La Samaki.net (tel. 505/8640-2058, $20), with simple concrete rooms, a small pool, Wi-Fi ($3/hr), and nice kite surfing instruction and rentals. They serve different vegetarian options, including Indian curry.

Restaurante y Cyber Manojito (tel. 505/8669-9467, reynercalderon [at] yahoo [dot] es), offers seafood, cocktails, surf lessons, and local tours.

At the end of the road, Hotel de la Playa Barca de Oro (tel. 505/2317-0275, tortuga [at] ibw [dot] com [dot] ni, www.barcadeoro.com [6]) remains the clear favorite among travelers, with its range of accommodations from $6 dorm to $20 double cabanas; includes fan, mosquito net, and private bath (you can fit up to four people in a $30 cabana). Food is fantastic. La Barca looks directly out to the northern tip of Isla Juan Venado [5], only 100 meters away across a protected lagoon. They can help you arrange all kinds of local (and inland) excursions. You can also rent kayaks, horses, sportfishing guides, and locals for a massage or pedicure.