PUERTO VALLARTA TOWN

The town of Puerto Vallarta (pop. 350,000) perches at the most tranquil recess of one of the Pacific Ocean’s largest, deepest bays, the Bay of Banderas. The bay’s many blessings—golden beaches, sparkling sunshine, blue waters, and the seafood that they nurture—are magnets for a million seasonal visitors.

  Visitors find that Puerto Vallarta is really two cities in one—a new town strung along the hotel strip on its northern beaches, and an old town nestled beneath jungly hills on both sides of a small river, the Río Cuale. Travelers arriving from the north, whether by plane, bus, or car, see the modern Puerto Vallarta first—a parade of luxury hotels, condominiums, apartments, and shopping centers. Visitors can stay for a month in a slick new Vallarta hotel, sun on the beach every day, disco every night, and return home, never having experienced the old Puerto Vallarta.

  And that would be a pity, for old Puerto Vallarta (lately being labeled the zona romantica) offers a trove of the very delights for which savvy vacationers flock to Puerto Vallarta. The best place to begin is the path along the tree-shaded isla (island) that basks smack in the middle of the Río Cuale. Continue uphill to the maze of cobbled streets that wind among the picturesque homes of Gringo Gulch. Return downhill to the breezy Malecón beachfront downtown, with its feast of handicrafts shops, art galleries, and nighttime party spots. Along your way, be sure to sample the offerings of old town’s treasury of fine restaurants, both trendy-chic and traditional Mexican.

  Continue your adventure to the beaches, starting at south-end Playa los Muertos; then ramble farther south, beyond the town limits and along the Bay of Banderas’s verdant shoreline to explore the hidden beaches, waterfalls, and picturesque fishing coves. Finally, be sure take a boat taxi or tour to one or two of the automobile-free jungle village hideaways perched on the southern shoreline of the Bay of Banderas.

A Walk Along Isla Río Cuale: A lovely shady stroll taking in crafts stalls, sidewalk artists, the quaint, swaying suspension bridges, and the John Huston statue. En route, stop for lunch at an Isla Río Cuale restaurant, such as Le Bistro or one of the view fondas upstairs at the Municipal Crafts Market. (read more)

Gringo Gulch: Visit the winding cobbled lanes that branch off of Zaragoza, two blocks uphill from the main town church. The picturesque bridge over Calle Zaragoza marks Casa Kimberly, the former home of Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor. (read more)

The Malecón: An excellent activity in the early evening is a walk along shoreline seawall-walkway called the Malecón. Pause to enjoy the many amusements by the Los Arcos (The Arches) amphitheater, and continue north, for several blocks, taking your pick of diversions from the parade of lively clubs, bars, shops, and restaurants. (read more)

Playa los Muertos: The strand of yellow sand that stretches for a mile south of the Río Cuale, the gentle waves, and lack of undertow make Playa los Muertos a good spot for wading and swimming. Be sure to walk out on the New Pier. Stop for lunch at a beachfront restaurant, such as the Hotel Playa los Arcos or Daiquiri Dick’s. (read more)

Snorkeling at Los Arcos: Los Arcos Marine Sanctuary, offshore from Mismaloya, is a magnet for both vacationers and fish. The vacationers snorkel and watch the droves of fish graze the seaweed and coral on the submarine slopes of these arched sea rocks. Best go by day cruise from the new pier at Playa los Muertos. (read more)

Day Cruise to Los Arcos and Yelapa: Book a cruise and board around 10 a.m. at the Playa los Muertos New Pier for a day of fun. First snorkel at Los Arcos sea rocks underwater sanctuary, then lunch, continuing on to Yelapa village for a short hike (or horseback ride) to a waterfall swimming hole. (read more)