THE NAYARIT COAST

Nayarit’s long, tufted coastline is one of the hidden, untouristed gems of the Mexican Pacific shore. Its beauty—verdant mountain and shoreline forests, orchard-swathed plains, and curving yellow strands of sand—is largely natural. Nevertheless, the amenities of civilization are abundant in the Nayarit Coast’s necklace of petite, hidden beachside resorts—Sayulita, Playa San Francisco, Lo de Marcos, Rincón de Guayabitos, Chacala, and San Blas—that offer an exceptional mix of south-seas delights. All of these—beach sunning and strolling, fishing, bird-, dolphin-, and whale-watching, wilderness camping, adventure sports opportunities, and comfortable hotels and good restaurant to boot—await those willing to follow the road an hour or two north of Puerto Vallarta.

  First stop along the way should be Sayulita, once mostly the home of fishing families and oyster divers. Now, it’s a haven for a winter platoon of youthful foreign sunbathers and surfer wannabes, who come to cozy up in comfortable lodgings and enjoy Sayulita’s good food and colorful village ambience.

  A few miles farther north, San Francisco (or locally, San Pancho) still retains its sleepy beach village ambience, but is also home to a growing community of North American vacationers and retirees. They come mainly for San Pancho’s abundant natural tranquility—of long strolls along palm-shaded forest trails, and gazing at the brilliant night sky and the spectacularly turbulent surf that dashes up San Pancho’s long, golden beachfront.

  The magnet of Lo de Marcos is its wide, family-friendly beach, sheltered by headlands on both sides and bordered by a sprinkling of beach bungalows and palm-shaded RV parks and campgrounds. The same is true of Rincón de Guayabitos, but even more so. It’s the hands-down Mexican family favorite resort of the entire Nayarit coast, largely for its many budget but comfortable housekeeping bungalows and tranquil, kid-friendly waves. A batallion of North American winter RV retirees have picked up the same message and stay the winter, fishing, barbequeing, and playing cards with long-time fellow returnees.

  The beach list goes on: incomparably lovely Playa Chacala, with its creamy half-moon beach, regal palm grove, homey local lodgings and a pair of rustic-chic hotel-spas; and farther north, the broad Bay of Matanchén with its pair of petite beachfront hotels, trailer parks, waterfall hikes, crocodile farm, and world-class surfing at north-end Playa Matanchen.

  Next comes San Blas, rich in history, revealed in its ancient, mossy hilltop fortress and its restored customs house and museum downtown. In the present, San Blas has become itself a jumping-off point for natural adventures. These include a jungle boat tours through its orchid-festooned wildlife-rich mangrove wetland, an excursion to offshore marine life sanctuary Isla Isabel, and/or an overnight in Mexcaltitán. The “Venice of Mexico,” it’s the ancestral island home of the Aztec people, who wandered east from Mexcaltitán around a.d. 1100 and within 400 years had built one of the world’s great cities and conquered Mexico.

  And finally, travel to the lush, green summit of Nayarit’s coastal mountains to Tepic, the Nayarit state capital, nestled in its fertile volcano-rimmed valley. Tepic is both the rich source of a trove of colorful and uniquely enigmatic Huichol ritual handicrafts and jumping-off point for the blue, forest-rimmed volcanic crater lake, Laguna Santa María de Oro.

Playa San Francisco: Spend at least a night or two in this quiet, largely untouristed beach village. Stroll the spectacular beachfront, wander through the lush, palm-tufted tropical woodlands on the south side of town, dine in some of the several excellent town restaurants, and stay at least one overnight in a comfortable bed-and-breakfast. (read more)

Alta Vista Archaeological Sacred Site: Make the side trip to this fascinating, forested site. The petroglyph-decorated trail climaxes in a magnificent wonder-evoking natural spring and stone amphitheater. (read more)

Playa Chacala: Spend a day or week at this loveliest of beaches, a strip of golden sand that enfolds a petite half-moon bay. A magnificent grove provides shade, good restaurants, and fresh seafood, and either homey or deluxe lodgings provide the restful nights. (read more)

La Tovara Jungle River Trip: Spend a day of your San Blas visit on the spectacular mangrove-jungle boat tour along the freshwater river. Stop for lunch and swimming at magnificent La Tovara natural spring. Linger for at least an overnight at the restful Hotel Garza Canela or the beautifully restored hotel Hancienda Flamingos. (read more)

Centro Cultural Huichol: Day-trip out from San Blas north to Santiago Ixcuintla and the Centro Cultural Huichol indigenous community center, whose mission is to preserve the Huichol cultural heritage. The center features a small shop of Huichol ceremonial handicrafts. (read more)

Mexcaltitán: Continue from Santiago Ixcuintla to the uniquely isolated island town of Mexcaltitán, believed to be the fabeled Aztlán homeland of the Aztec people. Stroll the circular, automobile-free village, visit the excellent historical museum, and linger with an overnight in Mexcaltitán’s modest hotel. (read more)

Crater Lake Santa María: If you’re traveling Hwy. 15 southeast from Tepic, don’t miss idyllic Lake Santa María, spectacularly set in a dormant now-forested volcanic crater. Swim, kayak, sail, and hike the mountain trails, then camp by tent or RV or stay in a comfortable hotel room or bungalows. (read more)