GRINGO GULCH

The steep, villa-dotted hillside above the island’s upper end is called Gringo Gulch for the colony of rich norteamericanos who own big homes there. It’s an interesting place for a stroll.

  Get there by heading downstream and back over the Insurgentes bridge. Turn north toward the center of town. After the bridge, bear right to the end of one-block Calle Emilio Carranza and continue up a steep, bougainvillea-festooned staircase to Calle Zaragoza one block above.

  At the corner of Zaragoza and the upper level of Emilio Carranza, you are at the gateway to Gringo Gulch. Wander the winding lanes and enjoy the picturesque scenes that appear around each rickety-chic corner. For example, note the luxurious palapas perched atop the tall villa on Carranza, half a block above Zaragoza.

  During your meanderings, don’t miss the Gringo Gulch centerpiece mansion at Zaragoza 446, once owned by Elizabeth Taylor. (You’ll scarcely be able to miss it, for it has a pink passageway arching over the street.) The house was a gift to Taylor from Richard Burton. After they were married, they also bought the house on the other side of Zaragoza, renovated it, and built a pool; thus the passageway became necessary. The house across the street, no. 446, is now the Casa Kimberly, a private Elizabeth Taylor–Richard Burton museum, which offers public tours for about $8 per person (and also bed-and-breakfast lodging, $75 d low season, $110 high). Call (tel. 322/222-1336) for details.

  The Club Internacional de la Amistad (International Friendship Club; tel. 322/222-5466) conducts very popular weekly seasonal tours of some of Puerto Vallarta’s showplace homes. Operating between Thanksgiving and Easter, tours customarily begin at the Hotel Posada Río Cuale (tel. 322/222-0914) mornings around 10:30 a.m. The club asks $25 per person as a contribution for its charitable activities. For confirmation and details, call the hotel or the club.

  Another worthwhile Puerto Vallarta guided stroll is the regular Art Walk tour of noted local galleries. For more information, contact Barbara Peters, personable owner of Galería Vallarta (tel. 322/222-0290, www.galeriavallarta.com).