Parque Nacional Huascarán, Peru

The spectacular wilderness of the Parque Nacional Huascarán includes Peru’s tallest peak, Huascarán, and every bit of the Cordillera Blanca above 4,000 meters (except for Nevado Champará at the extreme northern end). The land drops away on all sides of this long but narrow range, creating an interesting island habitat containing several endangered species. Among the park’s 340,000 hectares (840,140 acres), there are odd plants such as the Puya raimondii, the largest bromeliad in the world, and forests of endangered polylepis, the highest-altitude trees in the world. Andean condor can be seen here, and there are populations of vicuña, white-tailed deer, Andean dwarf deer, Andean lynx, fox, puma, and more than 100 species of birds.

From the Cordillera Negra, the Blanca looks like a huge wall of glaciated peaks rising from the Río Santa Valley. Nevertheless, the range dips low enough in places to allow trekking routes, and a few roads, to cross it. The road to Chavín de Huántar, one of Peru’s most enigmatic ancient ruins, tunnels through the lowest pass at 4,450 meters (14,596 feet). The valley on the far side of the range, known as the Callejón de Conchucos, is an isolated and remote area of small towns linked only by rough dirt roads. Glaciers spread over much of the terrain, along with more than 300 lakes. Unlike national parks in Europe and the U.S., thousands of people continue their traditional ways of life inside the Parque Nacional Huascarán. For the most part, the range’s inhabitants live below the poverty line, subsisting on maize, quinoa, and kiwicha grains, and a variety of potatoes and tubers. Their latest source of income, and one that is fast-growing, is providing burros for the foreigners who pass through this world-class trekking and climbing paradise.

The roads that lead up and over the Cordillera Blanca provide good access for day hikes. To hike here, stay in any of the villages along the Callejón de Huaylas, including Huaraz, Carhuaz, and Caraz. Then contract a taxi or horse or hop aboard a combi—but make sure to plan for your return ride in the afternoon. Many agencies in Huaraz offer cheap day excursions to Lagunas Llanganuco or Pastoruri Glacier for $8–10 and can pick you up at any of the towns along the way. Another option is to hike in to one of the refuges and use them as launching pads for day hikes.

Routes
The most spectacular, and crowded, trekking route in the park is the four- to five-day, 40-km Santa Cruz trek, which traditionally begins from the small settlements of Vaquerí or Colcabamba and ends at Cashapampa near Caraz. The high point of the pass is Punta Unión, at 4,760 meters, and the rest of the trek is all downhill along the Quebrada Santa Cruz, which offers a series of emerald lakes and mesmerizing views of Taulliraju, Alpamayo, Quitaraju, Artesonraju, and other snow peaks. Two days can be added to the beginning of the trek by starting at Lagunas Llanganuco and heading over the Portachuelo Llanganuco pass at 4,767 meters. Acclimatized and fit trekkers can hike this route with a light backpack, and burros can be contracted at Vaquerí or Colcabamba.

A two-week, 150-km option starts in Cashapampa and involves a huge northern circuit around Alpamayo. The trek takes in pristine mountain scenery and a roller coaster ride of high passes on Alpamayo’s remote northern side, including Paso los Cedros at 4,900 meters. If you start from Cashapampa, the final days of the trek leads down the Quebrada Santa Cruz along the traditional route. This trek is operated by Pony Expeditions in Caraz and is almost always done with burros.

Just above Huaraz, we recommend a two- or three-day hike up the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca, with a longer option to climb over a high pass and descend Quebrada Cojup on the return. Another option is a hike into Quebrada Rajucolta, the next valley to the south. All of these are pleasant two- or three-day hikes up into the valleys to lakes. Because few tourists walk these routes, they are safe to do alone or with another person. No burros are required.

There are at least two highly recommend routes that cross the Cordillera Blanca south of Huaraz and end at the ruins of Chavín de Huántar. The best-known version starts from Olleros, a village just south of Huaraz, and heads up and over Punta Yanashallash at 4,700 meters along an ancient trade route. If you get a ride up the dirt road above Olleros, this 35 km-route should take anywhere from three to four days and can be done with or without a burro.

The other 40-km, four- or five-day route, which includes a bit of mountaineering, starts above the village of Pitec above Huaraz and climbs the Quebrada Quilcayhuanca and then forks south into the Quebrada Cayesh. At the end of the valley, a rough trail leads up and over a snowy pass next to Nevado Maparaju (5,326 meters). This peak can be climbed from the saddle before continuing down the pass on the other side to the village of San Marcos, 8 km from Chavín de Huántar. Or you can simply cut across country on a rough patchwork of trails and head directly to Chavín de Huántar. Ask around about conditions before you try this route, as we have received reports that the far side of the pass is badly melted out and difficult to descend. If you are doing this route, you should bring crampons and an ice axe for the snowy portion, and inquire beforehand if there are snow-covered crevasses or other conditions that might merit a rope as well.

Getting There
There are a variety of transport options for accessing different areas of the park, ranging from public combis to private cars. See the Getting There sections in this chapter for Huaraz, Carhuaz, Yungay, and Caraz.