The ultimate Panama destination for the adrenaline set is the Darién. Attempting to hike through the Darién Gap these days is suicidal, but there are plenty of far safer but no less exciting ways to explore the forest. Ocean-to-ocean treks through the heart of the Darién are sometimes possible, but these are expensive, time-consuming, and logistically tricky.

  However, there is a quicker and less complicated way to cross the isthmus on the west side of the Darién, and a possible way of tackling it is listed below. This is a short enough adventure to allow time to experience some of Panama’s other well-known physical challenges.

  For those who truly want to immerse themselves in the Darién, Ancon Expeditions offers an intense two-week trek that takes in the rivers, rainforests, and highlands of the region. Custom-designed trips are also possible.

  Climbing to the top of Volcán Barú from the west side of the mountain is popular with outdoorsy types. Those who don’t need to climb every mountain, however, may prefer to hike around Barú instead, on the prettier Sendero Los Quetzales. This can allow more time for other highland activities, such as white-water rafting.

  The suggested itinerary below is meant only for the highly energetic and fit, and even then it should be attempted only with experienced naturalist guides.

DAY 1
Arrive at Tocumen International Airport and transfer to a hotel in Panama City.

DAY 2
Transfer in the early morning to the Bayano area. If time allows, take a boat across Lago Bayano to explore the caves on the far side. This will probably only be possible if the tour includes transportation up to Burbayar. Otherwise begin hiking up to the Continental Divide from El Llano. Spend the night in Burbayar Lodge, about 15 kilometers north of the Interamerican Highway.

DAY 3
Explore the forest around Burbayar, then head over the Continental Divide through Kuna territory toward Cartí, on the Caribbean coast 22 kilometers from Burbayar. Camp in the forest.

DAY 4
Arrive in Cartí early in the morning and hire a boat to one of the islands around El Porvenir. Snorkel around Achutupu and spend the night in a Kuna hotel.

DAY 5
Fly back to Panama City. Spend the day sightseeing and resting.

DAY 6
Take an early-morning flight to David and transfer to Cerro Punta. Spend the afternoon exploring the area or hiking in Parque Internacional La Amistad.

DAY 7
Hike up Volcán Barú and set up camp in the afternoon. Pitch a tent close to the summit.

DAY 8
Arrive at the summit by dawn for the best chance of a clear view of both oceans. Head back down the mountain after breakfast.

DAY 9
Spend the afternoon relaxing around Cerro Punta. The truly energetic can hike in the forest in search of quetzals.

DAYS 10–11
Head back down to David and transfer, through a tour operator, to Parque Nacional Coiba for scuba-diving. Spend two nights at the ranger station on Isla Coiba.

DAYS 12–13
Transfer to Panama City. Visit the Panama Canal and the remaining Panama City sights. This is also the time for souvenir shopping, a little pampering, and maybe a fancy meal or two after all that time in the boonies.

DAY 14
Transfer to Tocumen International Airport for the flight home.

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