THE DARIÉN

The Darién: It’s a name filled with magic.

  In many people’s minds the magic is of a dark and sinister kind. The Darién has historically been seen as a foreboding, dangerous place, a Conradian wilderness into which explorers venture, never to return. But the Darién is magical in many more positive ways as well. It is one of planet earth’s last great bastions of pristine tropical nature. Its biodiversity is so incredible it’s been named both a World Biosphere Reserve and a Natural World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

  The province of Darién is, at 16,671 square kilometers, by far the largest in Panama. It’s extremely sparsely inhabited; only 40,000 people live in the entire province. Parque Nacional Darién alone is enormous, covering 579,000 hectares of wilderness that sprawl across the isthmus near the Colombian border. It contains the most extensive lowland tropical forest left along Central America’s Pacific coast. Balboa stepped out of this forest in 1513 and became the first European to set eyes on the “South Sea.”

  The great attraction of the Darién is its magnificent forests and the incredible biodiversity they contain. Hiking, trekking, and bird-watching are what draw most nature tourists. But there are a couple of places along the coast of the Darién with accessible beaches and coral reefs. And, for those into such things, the waters off Piñas Bay offer world-class deep-sea fishing.

  What’s commonly thought of as “the Darién” extends beyond Darién province itself. It encompasses all of eastern Panama except the islands of Kuna Yala. Traditionally, the Darién starts at the town of Chepo, just 50 kilometers east of Panama City, though the city has expanded so much it’s hard to believe this area was pure wilderness less than three decades ago. It’s possible to drive into the Darién as far as the town of Yaviza, but there’s little reason to do so other than to say you’ve done it. Though the road has recently been much improved, the drive still takes a solid day, and all one encounters along the way are vast expanses of deforested land.

  The part of the Darién of most interest to visitors lies toward the southeast section of the province, where there are no roads. The only way to get around here is by plane, boat, and foot. This contains the most accessible entry points into Parque Nacional Darién.

  Two of the best spots in the park are Cana, on the east side of 1,615-meter-high Cerro Pirre, and Pirre Station, on its west side. These are right in the middle of barely inhabited tropical forest. Cana, the most remote point in Panama, is especially impressive.

  The most popular coastal areas are Punta Patiño, on the Golfo de San Miguel, and the Bahia de Piñas, farther down the coast near the Colombian border. Those looking for a trip up a Darién river usually find themselves on the Sambú, Mogue, Balsas, Pirre, or Tuira, though innumerable others crisscross this part of the Darién.

  There seems to be a saying about the Darién for every tree in the forest, some of which contain useful insights. My favorite, and one likely to resonate for any visitor, is this: Though many have come before you, it always feels as though you’re the first to enter the Darién.

Santa Cruz de Cana: The most remote part of Panama and one of the most beautiful, with extensive trails through pristine foothills up to a cool cloud forest, and around the jungle-choked remains of an old mining camp. One of the world’s top birding destinations. (read more)

Pirre Station: The entrance to the famous Parque Nacional Darién, Central America’s grandest tropical forest. (read more)

Punta Patiño Nature Reserve: The largest private nature reserve in the country, and the most comfortable place from which to visit the coast and rivers bordering the Golfo de San Miguel. (read more)

Mogue: The best bet for those who’d like to spend the night in an Emberá village. (read more)

Bahia de Piñas: Considered by many the best deep-sea fishing destination on the planet, it also has stunning forests, colorful villages, and the only luxury hotel in the Darién. (read more)