Playa Santa Catalina

Santa Catalina is the best surfing spot in Panama, with one of the most consistent breaks in Central or South America. There’s something to ride here every month of the year.

While Santa Catalina is of great interest only to serious surfers, it’s a pretty place even for those who just want to watch the rollers from a distance. However, much of the beach is strewn with rocks and boulders, and it’s a remote and isolated spot west of the Azuero Peninsula at the tip of sparsely settled farmland. It’s a long, rough road away from anything approaching civilization. It’s definitely a get-away-from-it-all kind of place. Lodging and dining options are basic. Those who just want some beach time have many better, more accessible options elsewhere.

The best time for really big waves is February to August, when wave faces get as high as 6–9 meters. At other times the average is 2–3 meters. There are several other breaks, some within walking distance, some requiring a boat ride to reach, that have breaks that can get even bigger.

The nearest sizable settlement on the drive down to the beach is Soná, an unattractive crossroads town with nothing to offer travelers. You can get some provisions here, but you’re better off stocking up back in Santiago, on the Interamerican Highway a two-hour drive from the beach.

Surfing
The internationally famous surf break at Santa Catalina has been described as a “perfect” point break with long, powerful hollow waves that break left and right. The sea bottom is volcanic rock, so bring booties. This place is strictly for experienced surfers; it’s all too easy to bust a board or a head on those rocks. There’s also a sand beach break next to town with hollow lefts and rights that are somewhat smaller than waves at the point.

There are several other breaks in the area that are less well known. Punta Brava, about a half-hour walk southeast of Santa Catalina point, is a hollow left-hand, rock-bottom break I’ve been told can get twice as big as those at Santa Catalina. Punta Roca, about a half-hour walk northeast of Catalina, is another left-hand point break, about the same size as Catalina. Isla Cebaco, which is accessible only by boat, is an island with a beach break and point break, with left- and right-breaking waves that tend to be somewhat bigger than Catalina point.

Except for the Santa Catalina point break, which can be surfed at medium or high tide, experienced surfers say these other waves can be ridden only at medium to low tide.

Surfers should bring their own boards. However, Rolo at Cabañas Rolo rents boards for $5 a day, though you’re responsible for any damage to them. Ricardo Icaza, the owner of Casa Blanca Surf Resort, will sometimes let guests rent his boards if he’s convinced they’re experienced enough not to break them on the rocks.