Achutupu

The idyllic uninhabited and semi-inhabited islands around the El Porvenir area are all east or northeast of this busy hub. The most popular with visitors is Achutupu, also known as Isla de Los Perros (Dog Island). It’s a private island with just one small family living on it. (Note: Don’t confuse this Achutupu with the large, crowded island of the same name much farther east.) Everything about this pristine speck of sand and palm trees is straight out of a postcard. The water is calm and crystalline, with great snorkeling visibility. And the snorkeling here is fun: There’s an old shipwreck in shallow water just off the south side of the island. It’s overgrown with brilliant coral and has become a playground for a variety of small and medium-sized tropical fish.

Achutupu is surrounded by other lovely islands, with rustic Kuna sailboats and the occasional sleek foreign yacht gliding around them. If Achutupu isn’t perfect enough, ask the boatman to do some more exploring. Resist the urge to use up your entire stock of film in this area.