Volcano hopping, anyone? Pack some sturdy boots and hike one or all of the more than a dozen ascents detailed in this book. Nicaragua’s Maribio and Dirian mountain ranges contain both dormant and active cones, each one completely unique in scenery, difficulty, vegetation, and length. A few of these hikes have established, well-blazed trails (Mombacho and Masaya Parks are notable exceptions), many don’t. In undeveloped-for-tourism areas, “hiking” means turning off the pavement, taking a poor dirt road to an even poorer one, and then entering the country’s vast network of mule- and footpaths that have connected rural communities for centuries. You’ll share the road with horses, cattle, and families walking to and from their fields. You’ll discover small adobe chapels, hidden shrines to the Virgin Mary, and cool watering holes, all on your way to or from another crater. Of course, you should always, when possible, hire a local guide, as a way to both support the community and to not get lost, both respectable goals.

  Following is a quickie week-long jaunt up a couple of favorites, but after seeing the long chain of gas-streaming peaks stretching off into the horizon, you’ll realize that this is only the beginning.

DAY 1
Arrive at Managua International Airport and transfer to Granada.

DAY 2
After enjoying the specter of Volcán Mombacho looming over the colonial streets, get a ride to its summit and walk the various ridge trails around its jungled craters; the wonderful loops make a good warm-up for what’s to come.

DAY 3
Spend the morning at Volcán Masaya’s gaping crater, only an hour from Granada and guaranteed to impress. On the way back, enjoy a swim in the Laguna de Apoyo, an unspoiled crater lake, easily accessed by bus from Masaya.

DAY 4
Transfer to León and find someone to take you to Cerro Negro, a relatively short but stout and rewarding hike.

DAY 5
Rest up on the beach at Las Peñitas and paddle out to Isla Juan Venado.

DAY 6
Today’s the big day. Hook back up with your guides in León and set out early to tackle Momotombo, a 1,300-meter, eight-hour round-trip on horseback and foot. Celebrate with a fancy dinner in León that night.

DAY 7
Back to Managua, back to work, or just back to the beach.