The watery “Golden Route” through southern Lake Cocibolca and down the Río San Juan is tougher to access than it was when boat service was more frequent, so you’ll need a minimum of 7–10 days to get there, get around, and get back. Once you reach San Carlos (by boat, bus, or small plane), public boat transportation is regular and cheap, but limited to a handful of boats per week. As a result, unless you really drop a lot of cash to hire your own personal boat and driver, you may find yourself stranded on one of 36 Solentiname islands for three days, with nothing to do but go fishing or bird- and crocodile-watching in a dugout canoe—we can think of worse things. The Río San Juan is unquestionably worth a visit, especially the photogenic fort and river town at El Castillo.

  Note that air and boat schedules require careful timing on this trip, so we’ve constructed one possible way to coordinate the logistics, which should help get you started in the region. Because schedules can change, be prepared for the worst and bring something to read while you’re waiting for the next boat.

DAY 1: TUESDAY
Fly from Managua to San Carlos in the early morning. If you really want the full-blown adventure, take the slow boat from Granada on Monday, not Tuesday: You’ll arrive Tuesday morning. Poke around San Carlos until the afternoon, when the boat leaves for Solentiname.

DAYS 2–3: WEDNESDAY–THURSDAY
Enjoy this island artist colony set in a unique area of profound natural splendor. You can hire boats to take you among the islands, enjoy scarlet sunsets, and absorb the intense tranquility of the archipelago. Return to San Carlos Thursday morning to catch the boat to Los Guatuzos. If you’d rather go directly and bypass San Carlos, strike a deal with a local Solentiname boat-owner.

DAYS 4–6: FRIDAY–SATURDAY
Hike and explore the fascinating tropical landscape of the Los Guatuzos reserve. A two-day stay will give you a taste for the reserve, but real outdoors enthusiasts will probably prefer to stay until the next boat (Tuesday, unless you make other arrangements). Arrival in San Carlos on Saturday means you are just in time to catch a boat downstream. Cast away and start your adventure down the mighty Río San Juan, bound for El Castillo.

DAY 7: SUNDAY
Start your day off in El Castillo early, so you can hear the sky fill with birds. Visit the old Spanish fort or rent a horse for a bush trip.

DAY 8 AND BEYOND
Most travelers return to San Carlos for a flight to Managua at this point, but if the downstream horizon is beckoning, then keep on floating, and happy trails.