SAN JUAN DEL SUR AND THE SOUTHWEST COAST

Once a quiet fishing village in a forgotten corner of the country, San Juan del Sur is now Nicaragua’s primary Pacific coast destination for both national and foreign tourists. Many of the pueblo’s 18,000 residents still make a go at fishing, but most are putting their money on the steady stream of big-spending visitors that, after having been predicted for more than a decade, is finally here. Everyone and their mother is developing a new shuttle service, bar, surf camp, or hospedaje—but not to worry, it’s all happening at a leisurely pace and, besides random annoying bursts of fireworks, San Juan is still a quiet village.

  San Juan’s principal resource is its perfect, protected harbor and its crescent beach, open to the setting sun and protected by El Indio (The Indian), whose silhouetted face hides in the rocky cliffs on the north end of the bay. Surf’s up, but so is foreign investment. Fortunately in San Juan del Sur, business and pleasure mix easily, usually over heaping plates of seafood, pasta, and fresh snapper. You’re sure to cross paths with the land sharks, property pimps, and the frenzied flock of checkbook-toting prospectors madly scouring the coastline for a piece of the pie. Only in Granada is the interest more ravenous. Don’t let the frenzy sour your mood. The beach is clean and mellow, and the evenings are rum-soaked and starry.

Sunset: Feel the earth turn downward, man, while sitting on San Juan del Sur’s public beach; surfboard optional. (read more)

Da Flyin Frog: This 17-platform canopy tour offers a lively forest and views of the ocean. (read more)

La Flor Wildlife Refuge: Even if you miss the spectacular nighttime turtle-nesting events, a simple walk along this protected beach and up the forested river is remarkable. (read more)

Bahía Majagual: There is a daily water taxi from San Juan’s beach to this beauteous bay, but why not spend a night or two at the beachfront campground or hostel. (read more)

Playa Gigante: Somewhere around here, a wave is arching around the point with no one around to ride it. (read more)