GRANADA

Granada is at once both the oldest city on the continent and the most developed tourist destination in Nicaragua. Some consider this “colonial jewel” to be the future of Nicaraguan tourism, the vanguard of what could be. True, if one is holding up Antigua, Guatemala as the archetype—i.e., the backpacker mecca model, where there are more foreign-run Internet cafés and hostels than actual native residents. But Granada’s charm won’t be taken over any time soon—too many of the distinctive buildings are the private homes of well-off, proud Nicaraguans who wouldn’t think of giving up their family’s place in the city (even if a few of their neighbors have done so). And there is good reason for Granada’s recent tourism boom. It is a fascinating city—full of bright colors, violent history, lake breezes, and the sounds (and smells) of horse-drawn carriages.

  Granada is the place to meet other vagabonds with whom you can swap stories over a few liters of Victoria in the tropical shadow of Volcán Mombacho. This is also your base camp for boat trips through the Isletas and canopy tours in the Mombacho cloud forest. There’s even a ship to Ometepe and the Río San Juan—but hold your horses, bucko, and check into one of the funky hospedajes for a couple of nights. Take in some Granada before going back to the wilds of Nicaragua. Nowhere else in the country will you find such an array of excellent restaurants set against a rainbow of architecture. This is less a city than a large, relaxed colonial town, where most evenings find the people out on the sidewalks, talking and laughing. Walk the streets, tour the churches, then enjoy a free concert in the park; there is much to love about Granada.

Antiguo Convento San Francisco: The towering stone statues displayed in one of the Convento’s many courtyards are a stunning glimpse into the nation’s pre-Colombian past. (read more)

La Plazuela de los Leones: Witness to centuries of Granada’s most exciting events, the Plazeula is Granada’s cultural epicenter, bursting with art, music, historical works, and, of course, Internet access. (read more)

Complejo Turístico Cocibolca: Less a tourist center than a broad shoulder of a park, its leafy canopy and fresh lake breeze set the tone for languid, breathless tropical afternoons. The panoramic backdrop—broad, magnificent Lake Cocibolca—is unmatched in Nicaragua. (read more)

Las Isletas: Spend a lazy day swimming, picnicking, and relaxing among the hundreds of gorgeous islands that comprise Las Isletas. (read more)

Laguna de Apoyo: This volcanic crater lake just might be Nicaragua’s prettiest swimming hole, but you can just as easily enjoy lunch alongside this “bottomless” beauty. (read more)

Volcán Mombacho: More than a gorgeous background for your Granada photographs, this is a first-class set of hiking trails, an eco-lodge, a canopy tour, and a lot more. (read more)

Canopy Tours Mombacho: Fifteen platforms, a hanging bridge, and lots of excitement await you from the treetops on the slopes of Mombacho. Plus, you’ll enjoy one of the best views in town—if you can keep your eyes open, that is. (read more)