VOLCÁN MOMBACHO

TThis is the big daddy with the blown top that serves as the perfectly exotic backdrop for your photos of Granada’s cathedrals and tile roofs, and it is definitely worth a visit. Every bit of cool, misty, Volcán Mombacho’s cloud forest higher than 850 meters above sea level is officially protected as a nature reserve. This equals about 700 hectares of park, rising to a peak elevation of 1,345 meters, and comprising an incredibly rich, concentrated island of flora and fauna. Thanks to the Fundación Cocibolca, the reserve is accessible and boasts the best-designed and maintained hiking trails in the nation.

  Overgrown with hundreds of orchid and bromeliad species, tree ferns, and old-growth cloud and dwarf forests, Mombacho also boasts three species of monkeys, 168 observed birds (49 of which are migratory), 30 species of reptiles, 60 mammals (including at least one very secretive big cat), and 10 amphibians. The flanks of the volcano, 21 percent of which remains forested, are composed of privately owned coffee plantations and cattle ranches. Maintaining the forest canopy is another crucial objective of Fundación Cocibolca, since this is where more than 90 percent of Mombacho’s 1,000 howler monkeys reside (the monkeys travel in 100 different troops, and venture into the actual reserve only to forage).

  There is a short (half-hour) trail through the coffee farm at the bottom of the volcano, where you wait for your ride up. Once on top, there are two main trails to choose from. Sendero el Cráter, which encircles the forest-lined crater, and features a moss-lined tunnel, several lookouts, and a spur trail to the fumaroles (holes in the ground venting hot sulfurous air). The fumaroles area is an open, grassy part of the volcano with blazing wildflowers and an incredible view of Granada and her Isletas. The whole loop, including the spur, is 1.5 kilometers, with a few ups and downs, and takes a casual hour to walk. The Sendero la Puma is considerably more challenging—it is a four-kilometer loop with several difficult climbs that lead to breathtaking viewpoints. It begins at a turnoff from the fumaroles trail, and you should allow a minimum of three hours to complete it (and lots of water). Well-trained, knowledgeable local guides (some with English) are available for $5 for the Sendero el Cráter (per group, plus tip) and $10 for the Sendero la Puma. Note, because of the altitude and the clouds, the visibility from these trails may be much diminished on bad-weather days.

  The reserve is closed on Mondays (for maintenance), and usually restricts Tuesdays and Wednesdays to organized groups. From Thursday to Sunday, all are welcome. The entrance fee ($7.50 for foreigners, $5 for Nicas and residents, $4 for students and children) includes admission to the reserve, transport to and from the top of the volcano, and insurance. If you’ve got the time and the strong legs, feel free to hike all the way up the steep road yourself. Allow a couple hours (and lots of water) to reach the top.

Volcán Mombacho Biological Center
Located at the base of one of Mombacho’s 14 communications antennas, on a small plateau called Plan de las Flores at 1,150 meters, the research station is also an interpretive center, hospedaje, cafetín, ranger station, and conference center. The center was completed in 2000 and is still growing. There are drinks and snacks here, including a corriente (standard) dish for $3.50. As of press time, there are 10 dormitory beds in a loft above the interpretive center. It costs $25 to rent out the whole albergue, (hostel) which sleeps up to 10 people. A package deal is available, which includes dinner, a guided night hike (on which you can search for the famous red-eyed frog and Mombacho salamander), and breakfast; or pitch a tent for $15 and buy meals on the side. For more information on updated prices and packages, contact the Biological Station at tel. 505/552-5858, or Fundación Cocibolca (in Managua) at tel. 505/278-3224 or 505/277-1681, fcocibol@ibw.com.ni.