RESERVA CHARCO VERDE

At Charco Verde you can swim in the lake to the call of monkeys in the trees and watch colorful birds whiz over your head. This is still a relatively wild area, with enough tall trees remaining to house some very exciting wildlife. The entire area has been cordoned off to prevent development, leaving this cove an oasis of peace to be shared by you and the monkeys (who, incidentally, do their own part by throwing excrement at intruders from the trees—seriously).

  There are three places to stay in this area, each owned by a different Rivera brother or sister. They all offer boat trips along the shoreline to fish or to reach Isla de Quiste, and rent horses. They have a cattle farm just up the beach—ask if you can visit and milk some cows. Hospedaje Charco Verde ($18 per room or $5 pp—strange but true) is right next to the reserve with easy trail access. At La Posada de Chico Largo (tel. 505/886-4069 or 505/830-7608, chicolargo@yahoo.com, $4 dorm beds or $5 pp for room with private bath), you can eat three great meals and enjoy the pleasant company of the owners, who are great folks in spite of their nickname, “Los Diablos.” For starters, ask about La Mirador del Diablo trail.

  Up the beach a way (toward Moyogalpa), Rubén Riveras runs a family-style guesthouse on the beach called Hotel Finca Venecia; eight cabins (3–5 beds each) run for $25–50 and there are four rooms for $5 pp. It’s one km to the nearest stretch of beach but the hammock pavilion is quiet and pacific and access to Charco Verde is easy. Rubén rents horses and bikes for exploring the island. The restaurant serves well-prepared pasta, chicken, fish, and beef dishes. From his place, it’s an easy walk along the shore into the reserve of Charco Verde and to Playa Balcón. A voluntary contribution is requested to maintain the reserve—$1–2 is appropriate.