21-Day Best of Nicaragua

The 21-Day Best of Nicaragua
Like other countries in the region, Nicaragua has its own carved-out tourist route through its principal attractions (a.k.a. “gringo trail”), offering the chance to travel in the company of fellow vagabonds, but always with easy access to offbeat side trips. The Granada–Ometepe–San Juan del Sur circuit can be done in about one week; save another week for tackling the northwestern lowlands and a third for the Atlantic coast or Río San Juan. (read more)

The Path of Sandino

The Path of Sandino
Whether or not you agree with the politics of today’s Sandinistas, there is no doubt that the man, Augusto Cesar Sandino—his ideals, actions, and legacy—left an indelible footprint on Nicaraguan history, culture, and politics. Step back in time and learn more about why this is so. (read more)

Hiking the Ring of Fire

Hiking the Ring of Fire
Volcano hopping, anyone? Pack some sturdy boots and hike one or all of the more than a dozen ascents detailed in this book. Nicaragua’s Maribio and Dirian mountain ranges contain both dormant and active cones, each one completely unique in scenery, difficulty, vegetation, and length. A few of these hikes have established, well-blazed trails (Mombacho and Masaya Parks are notable exceptions), many don’t. In undeveloped-for-tourism areas, “hiking” means turning off the pavement, taking a poor dirt road to an even poorer one, and then entering the country’s vast network of mule- and footpaths that have connected rural communities for centuries. You’ll share the road with horses, cattle, and families walking to and from their fields. You’ll discover small adobe chapels, hidden shrines to the Virgin Mary, and cool watering holes, all on your way to or from another crater. Of course, you should always, when possible, hire a local guide, as a way to both support the community and to not get lost, both respectable goals. (read more)

Outdoor Adventure
Snorkeling is best off the Corn Islands and various cays. Diving is a relatively new pastime, with only three shops in the whole country: one in San Juan del Sur and one on each of the Corn Islands. The latter two share a combined 12 kilometers of reef. The shop on Little Corn (www.divelittlecorn.com) has newer equipment, and the reef there was less affected by recent hurricanes. Both islands’ reef systems feature a stunning diversity of wildlife, including rays, eels, angels, groupers, sharks, and enormous pools of African pompano. (read more)

The Great Green North
Nicaragua north of Managua is offbeat and little-traveled, and gives the creative traveler lots of opportunities. Pueblo-hopping through the Segovia mountains and participating in the Ruta de Café will immerse you in an authentic and sublime world you won’t soon forget. Each town has a swimming hole, local hike, or archeological site that will beckon you further. Go! Alternate legs include passing through San Juan de Limay and the back roads to León; or from Jinotega, looping through Yalí to Condega. (read more)

Down the Río San Juan

Down the Río San Juan
The watery “Golden Route” through southern Lake Cocibolca and down the Río San Juan is tougher to access than it was when boat service was more frequent, so you’ll need a minimum of 7–10 days to get there, get around, and get back. Once you reach San Carlos (by boat, bus, or small plane), public boat transportation is regular and cheap, but limited to a handful of boats per week. As a result, unless you really drop a lot of cash to hire your own personal boat and driver, you may find yourself stranded on one of 36 Solentiname islands for three days, with nothing to do but go fishing or bird- and crocodile-watching in a dugout canoe—we can think of worse things. The Río San Juan is unquestionably worth a visit, especially the photogenic fort and river town at El Castillo. (read more)