ZÓCALO

Also called the Plaza de la Constitución, the Zócalo is the second-largest public plaza in the world after Red Square in Moscow. For most of the past two centuries it was lined with trees and grass (as are most plazas in Mexico). Now it’s completely empty, save for the flagpole in the center. Although certainly a bit spartan, this massive open square in the very center of one of the most crowded environments on the globe makes a powerful spatial statement. Mexicans regularly fill the plaza for political rallies and protest demonstrations, or just to enjoy a sunny afternoon.

The Zócalo has formed the heart of Mexico City since the founding of the original Tenochtitlán in 1325. During the height of the Aztec empire, the space frequently served as a site for dances and celebrations, in addition to being the second most important market in the city. On the northeast corner towered the Templo Mayor, while the palaces of Aztec rulers lined the sides of the plaza. The causeways leading off the island of Tenochtitlán to the north, west, and south began at the plaza and are now paved over by the avenues of República de Brasil, Tacuba, and 20 de Noviembre, respectively.

After the Spanish took over the Zócalo during the colonial years, the import merchants of El Parian market and secondhand traders of El Baratillo flea market filled the space. As in Aztec times, the square remained the city’s main meeting place and was a center of constant activity. By the end of the 18th century, the Zócalo was surrounded by the same buildings that flank it today: the Catedral Metropolitana on the north side, the Palacio Virreinal (now Palacio Nacional) on the east, the Palacio del Ayuntamiento (City Hall) on the south, and the merchants’ arcades on the west. The only new building raised since that time is a second city hall building, the easterly of the two, built between 1941 and 1948. Just off the southeast corner of the Zócalo stood the smaller Plaza Volador, which housed a market of its own and also served as the city’s bullfighting ring. The Suprema Corte de Justicia (Supreme Court) building now occupies this spot.

The liberal-minded Emperor Maximilian banished the markets and tried to create his vision of a Parisian park in Mexico, replete with tree-lined walks, benches, and a wrought-iron kiosk in the center. With many modifications, the trees remained through the years of Porfirio Díaz, who took pains to cultivate European styles. To achieve its current vaguely social-realist monumental style, the Zócalo was cleared shortly after the 1910–1920 revolution, perhaps in homage to the Soviet Red Square.

Now a towering flagpole in the center is the square’s only ornamentation. In strict military drill, a contingent of goose-stepping guards, in full battle gear, issue from the Palacio Nacional and then raise (in the morning) or lower (at sunset) a huge Mexican flag daily. The folding of the gigantic tricolor takes a half-dozen soldiers a full 15 minutes to accomplish and is accompanied by a fanfare of drums, bugles, and flugelhorns.

The city government has considered adding a row of trees along one side of the plaza, but that’s yet to transpire. Even if it does, the Zócalo is unlikely ever to become just another one of the innumerable tree-lined plazas in Mexican cities, if only because Mexicans love taking advantage of this irresistible void in the center of one of the most populated cities on earth. Every day the plaza gathers a crowd of locals, tourists, street vendors, political activists, beggars, people looking for work, Aztec dancers, clowns, and much else besides.

The Aztec dancers perform most days, but always on weekends and also on certain celebration dates: August 13, the day Tenochtitlán fell to the Spaniards; September 21, the fall equinox; November 1 and 2, Días de los Muertos; December 21, the winter solstice; March 21, the spring equinox; and June 21, the summer solstice.

For good, wide-angle views of the square, have a meal at the balcony restaurant of the Hotel Majestic or Holiday Inn on the west side. The Hotel Majestic won’t let you stay just for drinks, unless you’re very persuasive and it’s not crowded, but the Holiday Inn is more relaxed.

The portales (archways) on the southwest side of the plaza often shelter temporary displays of paintings or photography.

 The government has installed a tourist information booth on the Zócalo, on the west side of the Catedral (left side as you face it); there, you can find maps and other information.