Monumental Plaza de Toros México

Often referred to by its shorter name, Plaza México (Agusto Rodín 241, Colonia Ciudad de los Deportes, just west of Insurgentes Sur), Mexico City’s bullfighting stadium is the largest and best-outfitted in the world. Begun in 1944 as part of a huge sports complex that was to include a bullring, soccer stadium, tennis courts, frontón (jai alai court), and restaurants, the project was suspended after the corrida and soccer stadiums were finished. The plaza was inaugurated on February 5, 1946, with a cartel (program) that featured the legendary Luis “El Soldado” Castro, Manuel “Manolete” Rodríguez, and Luis Procuna. The stadium can hold an astounding 41,262 spectators. For more information on upcoming shows in Mexico City and elsewhere in the country, see www.fiestabrava.com.mx.

Monumental Plaza de Toros México’s main bullfighting season is in the winter (Nov.–Feb.), with full-fledged matadors pitted against the largest and most ferocious bulls. May to September is reserved for novilladas, in which novilleros (novice bullfighters) fight novillos—younger, smaller bulls.

It’s usually a good idea to buy tickets for a corrida in advance if possible. Check with the tourist office to find out whether they’re available, since it’s not unusual for an event to sell out (in which case you might still be able to buy a ticket—at higher prices—from a scalper, or revendedor). Spectator sections are divided into the sol (sunny side) and sombra (shaded side), then subdivided according to how close the seats are to the bullring itself. The sol tickets aren’t bad, since the corrida usually doesn’t begin until around 4 p.m.; bring a hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen, plus plenty of pesos for beverages (tequila and beer are usually available, along with soft drinks).

Corridas or novilladas alternate irregularly between Saturday and Sunday but always begin at 4 p.m. Ticket offices are open to special pass holders Thursday and Friday only; the general public must buy their tickets Sat.–Sun. 9:30 a.m.–1 p.m. and 3:30–7 p.m. Ticket prices range $1–10 in the sol section or $2–20 on the sombra side.

For scheduling details, check local newspapers, call Plaza México directly at tel. 5563-3961, or simply go by the stadium and ask at the ticket office.