SIGHTS

Considering its rich culture and eventful history, it’s no surprise that Mexico City has an almost overwhelming number of destinations to interest visitors. Start off down in the Centro, the ancient island capital of the Aztecs, where you can walk to the spot where Cortés and Moctezuma met that fateful day in 1519, and then see the result of that meeting a couple of blocks away in the ruins of the Templo Mayor, right next to the Catedral.

There’s hundreds of ornate buildings from the colonial era in the Centro and throughout the city, from old monasteries to baroque churches and sumptuous palaces built by silver barons—even haciendas that used to be on farmland but now sit stranded within the city, islands of the past. And there’s plenty of ingenious modern architecture to see too, like the modernist buildings at the national university, covered in three-dimensional murals, or a little gem of a house built by architect Luis Barragán, declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2004.

But Mexico City isn’t just about seeing monuments and buildings. This is one of the most vibrant cities in the world, with one of the most colorful arrays of cultures and subcultures you’re ever likely to run across. Check out the ancient printing presses, where low-budget scribes still write love letters for hire on the Plaza Santo Domingo; go listen to sequined mariachis at Garibaldi; or go watch the faithful pray at the feet of Mexico’s most sacred national symbol, La Virgen de Guadalupe.

Mexico City is a fantastic city to walk in. Basically all the neighborhoods covered in this book are excellent for wandering on foot, although moving between them sometimes requires a taxi, bus, or Metro ride. In particular, places like the Centro, Roma, Condesa, and Coyoacán are perfect for strolling through at a relaxed pace, with narrow streets, parks, and plenty of fine historic architecture. And the weather is almost always amenable, with daytime temperatures usually in the comfortable 65–75° F (although you might want an umbrella in case of an afternoon shower in the spring–summer rainy season).

Must-see Square: Since it was founded as the ancient Aztec island capital Tenochtitlán in 1325, the Zócalo, a broad, empty square, has been the center of the city. The square is surrounded by some of the most important monuments in the city: the ruins of the Aztec Templo Mayor, the Catedral, and the Palacio Nacional. (read more)

Best View: Take an elevator ride up to the top of the 142-meter Torre Latinoamericana, located right next to Bellas Artes in the Centro. From the 38th floor observation deck, with coin-operated telescopes, catch a bird’s-eye view of the rooftops of central Mexico City, and if air quality permits, the surrounding mountains. (read more)

Best Murals: A block north of the Zócalo is the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso, where the mural movement began in 1922. Here a group of talented young painters, including Diego Rivera, José Clemente Orozco, and Davíd Alfaro Siqueiros, decorated the walls of this exceptionally beautiful colonial-era building with their murals. (read more)

Most Ornate Colonial Art: A small church just off the Zócalo, Iglesia de la Enseñanza, has a fine carved facade. But the real reason for a visit here is for the nine baroque retablos (altarpieces) lining the walls inside the church. (read more)

Best Museum: One of the finest museums of its kind in the world, the Museo Nacional de Antropología e Historia is a seemingly endless collection of archaeological artifacts, from the huge and austere carved stone Olmec heads to the dazzlingly artwork of the Zapotecs. (read more)

Best Neighborhood Park: In the hip Colonia Condesa, Parque México is an oval-shaped little eden, just a couple of blocks from the bustling Avenida Insurgentes. Bring a newspaper or book, grab a coffee at one of the corner cafés, and take a bench on one of the quiet walkways. (read more)

Best Hidden Gem: Just west of the Condesa, the Casa de la Bola still stands in the Tacubaya neighborhood, which used to be a wealthy suburb hundreds of years ago. Step off the busy avenues through the almost hidden front door of this 17th-century home and you’ll be transported back to those years in an instant. (read more)

Best Walking Route: In the center of Coyoacán you’ll find lovely cobblestone streets lined with colonial mansions in all directions. One of the best routes is the stroll between two beautiful and quiet little squares, Plaza y Capilla de la Conchita and Parque Santa Catarina. (read more)

Best Place for a Boat Ride: For a true Mexican-style party, take an afternoon trip down to Xochimilco in the south of the city. Here you can rent a trajinera (small boat) that will take you and your friends for a relaxed ride along tree-lined canals. Mariachis will float by on their own boats, happy to strike up a cheery tune for a small fee. (read more)

Best Place to Get Some Fresh Air: The pine-forested mountains of Desierto de los Leones is a great place to take a long walk through the woods or go horseback riding. Set in a forest grove in the park is a lovely old monastery, now open for tourists to visit. (read more)