ARTS and ENTERTAINMENT

In their relentless quest for diversion, capitalinos (citizens of the capital) have turned their city into a world-class source of art and entertainment for virtually every taste. Whether you’re into modern art museums, avant-garde theater, gallery exhibitions, cult cinema, mariachi bands, dancing to every kind of music from salsa to techno, or just a great corner cantina, you’ll find some part of the city dedicated to that particular form of expression. 

Maybe it’s the fact that living in such a determinedly urban environment already seems unhealthy, but Mexico City residents are unquestionably prone to excess. They like to have fun often, and tend to do it for several hours, if not days, at a time. Most parties really don’t get going until after midnight, and if the vibe is right, staying up until the morning light is not uncommon—and not just for 20-year-olds, either. 

While the suggestions in this chapter should give you plenty to start with, there’s a whole lot more going on just waiting to be discovered by those who choose to explore. A good place to start is the entertainment listings of many local newspapers and magazines, especially Reforma, Tiempo Libre, D.F., and Chilango.

Best Night a la Mexicana: There’s really no better way to plumb the depths of a night in D.F. than to spend a few hours (preferably well past midnight) in Plaza Garibaldi. Make your way through the throngs of revelers and mariachis out on the square and grab a table at the convivial Salon Tenampa, where the mariachi phenomenon began in the 1920s. (read more)

Best Salsa Dancing: There are two places in the Centro that take salsa very seriously: Salón Baraimas and Tarara. Here you won’t see a lot of heavy drinking, but you will see some outrageous moves. Both places have classes for beginners. (read more)

Best Underground Rock Venue: When the rock en español movement got its start in the 1980s Rockotitlán Sur was one of the original venues showcasing that genre, and it’s still at it. Head down on a weekend night to see which band might become the next Café Tacuba or Botellita de Jeréz. (read more)

Best Cabaret: Unless your Spanish is really good it’s not easy to catch the word play and political references, but you’ll still have a blast watching the over-the-top Astrid Hadad perform her music review at El Bataclán, with updated versions of classic rancheras and boleros. (read more)

Best Dance Performance: With its performances taking place in the ornate Palacio de Bellas Artes, Ballet Folklórico de Amalia Hernández is an impressive display of choreographed traditional dances from around Mexico, with elaborate costumes and great music. (read more)

Best Traditional Cantina: Of the hundreds of great cantinas in this town, Cantina la Guadalupana in Coyoacán is a great choice. Popular with tourists and Mexicans alike, this old-school cantina has exemplary service, good food, and wandering music bands happy to strike up a tune in front of your table. (read more)

Best Dance Club: For a young crowd looking to lose themselves in the loud rhythms of house and techno music, the Pervert Lounge is a popular choice. It has been around forever, but oddly enough (for this trendy scene) it remains a favorite. (read more)

Best Diego and Frida Museum: It’s a bit out of the way, but for fans of Mexico’s most famous artist couple, the trip down to Xochimilco to the Museo Dolores Olmedo Patiño is well worth it. Housed in a lovely 16th-century hacienda surrounded by lush gardens, this museum was created by Olmedo out of her personal collection of works by Rivera and Kahlo. (read more)

Best Modern Art Museum: Mexico City has a number of top-notch modern art museums, but one of the best is Museo de Arte Carrillo Gil in San Ángel. You’ll find a comprehensive collection of Mexico’s greatest modern artists, including Rivera, Siqueiros, Tamayo, and Toledo, as well as newer, more experimental, artists. (read more)

Most Unusual Art Gallery: Not every country has an art gallery run by the tax man, but D.F. does. Right behind the Catedral is the Galería SCHP, which shows an eclectic selection of works donated by Mexican artists in lieu of their tax bill. (read more)