LAKE CHAPALA AND OTHER GETAWAYS

Guadalajara’s appeal overflows beyond its metropolitan boundaries. Major pilgrimage shrines, picturesque, pine-shadowed mountain villages, relaxing hot springs resorts and spas, lovely cascades and waterfalls, picturesque old haciendas, Tequila factory tours and tasting, opal mines, the monumental pyramids at Teuchtitlán, and much more await those willing to venture an hour or two beyond Guadalajara’s city limits.

The folks who live around shallow Lake Chapala, Mexico’s largest lake, pride themselves on their lake’s brilliant sunsets, its quiet country ambience, and its famously temperate weather. Formed by gigantic earth movements millions of years ago, the lake originally spread far beyond its present cucumber-shaped 50- by 20-mile (80- by 30-kilometer) basin south of Guadalajara.

Now, rounded, gentle mountains shelter the sprinkling of small towns and villages that decorate the shoreline. Chapala’s sleepy, rural southern lakeside contrasts with the northern shore, which has become both a favored holiday retreat for well-to-do Guadalajara families and home to a sizable colony of American and Canadian retirees. The 10-mile procession of petite, picturesque towns—Chapala, Chula Vista, San Antonio, La Floresta, Ajijic, San Juan Cosala, and others—scattered along the northern shore have collectively become known as the Chapala Riviera. A stream of visitors and an abundance of resident talent and resources sustain good restaurants and hotels as well as fine shops that offer the works of an accomplished community of artisans and artists.

The other eight getaway destinations described in this chapter are reachable in an average drive or bus ride of about an hour and a half, the closest in under an hour, the farthest about two and a half hours. They’re all good for an overnight or, even better, a two-night stay that allows a day for getting oriented and a second day for relaxing and lingering. At some places you might decide to stay a week or more. The getaways begin with San Juan de los Lagos in the northeast and work clockwise around the regional map to Magdalena in the west.

AJIJIC TOWN PLAZA: A visit to the Ajijic plaza can include a stop in the ancient Chapel of the Virgin of Santiago and the Church of San Andrés. (read more)

NEILL JAMES LIBRARY AND GARDEN: The Lake Chapala Society oversees this library and its lovely gardens. Combine your visit here with the many inviting shops and art galleries awaiting nearby. (read more)

AJIJIC LAKESHORE: Walk out on to the Ajijic pier; if it’s late afternoon, you’ll get to enjoy the sunset view over the lake. Be sure to see the textile offerings of the several indigenous women weavers in front of the Restaurant Posada Ajijic. (read more)

CHAPALA PIER: In Chapala town, stroll past the crafts stalls and out to the antique lighthouse at the end of the pier. Hire a boat tour to midlake Isla de Mezcala. If you have time on the return trip, stop for lunch at one of the restaurants on Isla de los Alacranes. (read more)

CATEDRAL BASÍLICA: Visit the cathedral basilica of the miraculous Virgen de San Juan de los Lagos. Linger and peruse the fascinating swarm of religious souvenir stands in front of the basilica. (read more)

EL POCITO: This shrine in San Juan de los Lagos features a room festooned with gifts and mementos brought by the Virgin’s multitude of yearly visitors. (read more)

EL SALTO PARK AND WATERFALL: In Mazamitla, explore this private park and take a guided horseback ride through the surrounding pine-tufted forest. More vigorous visitors might leave the horses behind and take the exercise themselves by doing the walk on foot. (read more)

LAS PIEDROTAS: From Tapalpa, drive, taxi, or hike the four miles to the Big Rocks—fine for wandering, wondering, climbing, and possible overnight camping. (read more)

CHIMULCO: Bring the whole family and splash in natural spring water pools and enjoy a picnic afterward in the shady adjacent park. Stay overnight in a bungalow or at the RV park. (read more)

RÍO CALIENTE SPA: At this spa, you can bask in warm pools, stroll the pine-oak shaded forest trails, and be pampered with sauna, massage, and spa treatments. (read more)

BOSQUE DE PRIMAVERA: Enjoy a swim and a picnic at one of the balnearios (bathing springs), such as Las Tinajitas or El Bosque. Arrive prepared to camp in the pine-scented forest on the bank of the steaming Río Caliente. (read more)

GUACHIMONTONES: At this archaeological zone, explore the ancient monumental ceremonial complex and enjoy the lake view from atop the pyramids. (read more)