CATEDRAL DE GUADALAJARA

The downtown cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin of the Assumption when it was begun in 1561, was finished about 30 years later. A potpourri of styles—Moorish, Gothic, Renaissance, and Classic—make up its spires, arches, and facades. Although an earthquake demolished its steeples in 1818, they were rebuilt and resurfaced with cheery canary yellow tiles in 1854.

Inside, side altars and white facades climax at the principal altar, built over a tomb containing the remains of several former clergy, including the mummified heart of renowned Bishop Cabañas. One of the main attractions is the Virgin of Innocence, in the nave, left side, to the left of the entrance. The glass-enclosed figure contains the bones of a 12-year-old girl who was martyred in the third century and forgotten, then rediscovered in the Vatican catacombs in 1786 and shipped to Guadalajara in 1788. The legend claims she died protecting her virginity; it is equally likely that she was martyred for refusing to recant her Christian faith.

Somewhere in the nave (maybe near the main altar) you’ll find either a copy of or the authentic Virgen de Zapopan. Sometime between June and October 12, the tiny, adored figure will be the authentic “La Generala,” as she’s affectionately known; on October 12, a tumultuous crowd of worshippers escorts her back to the cathedral in Zapopan, where she remains until brought back to Guadalajara the next June.

Outside, broad plazas surround the cathedral: the Plaza Guadalajara (formerly Plaza Laureles), in front (west) of the cathedral, then, moving counterclockwise, the Plaza de Armas to the south, Plaza Liberación to the east (behind), and the Plaza de los Hombres Ilustres to the north of the cathedral.