THE GRAND CANYON NATIONAL PARK

Most people head first to the South Rim, entering at either the South Entrance Station near Grand Canyon Village or the East Entrance Station near Desert View. A 25-mile scenic drive along the rim connects these entrances. The South Rim features great views, a full range of accommodations and restaurants, and easy access—it’s just 58 miles north of I-40 from Williams. Roads and most facilities stay open all year. Attractions include views and historic buildings at Grand Canyon Village, the scenic drive west on Hermit Road to Hermits Rest (8 miles), and Desert View Drive east to Desert View (25 miles). Some remarkable architecture lines the South Rim, including a series of unique stone structures designed by Mary Colter. The South Rim also features most of the Canyon’s easily accessible viewpoints and trails. It’s not surprising, then, that large crowds of visitors are the main drawback of this part of the Canyon. Park staff have long-range plans to relieve the congestion by adding more shuttles, bike paths, and foot trails.

Only about 1 in 10 visitors makes it to the North Rim, but if you go you’ll be rewarded with pristine forests, rolling meadows, splendid wildflower displays, and superb panoramas. Viewpoints here stand some 1,300 feet higher than those at the South Rim and provide a dramatically different perspective of the Canyon. The North Rim area offers lodging, dining, and camping facilities similar to the South Rim’s, though on a smaller scale. Because of harsh winters, facilities at the North Rim operate only from mid-May to mid-October, though the road remains open until the arrival of the first big winter storm. Although the rims stand just 10 miles apart, motorists on the South Rim must drive 215 miles and about five hours via Cameron and Jacob Lake to get here.

Adventurous travelers on the North Rim willing to tackle 61 miles of dirt road (each way; impassable when wet) can head west to Toroweap Overlook. This perch sits a dizzying 3,000 feet directly above the Colorado River—one of the Canyon’s most spectacular viewpoints. Don’t expect any facilities other than the road and outhouses. Bring all supplies, including water. Low elevations of 4,500–5,000 feet allow access most of the year.

Driving Rim to Rim

Although 215 miles and about five hours may seem long to cover just 10 raven-flying miles, the drive passes an incredible variety of scenery. From Grand Canyon Village on the South Rim, you’ll first head east along the Desert View Drive with its many viewpoints of the Grand Canyon. Then, at 16.5 and 21.7 miles past Desert View, you’ll come to overlooks into the sheer-walled Little Colorado River Canyon; they’re also a good place to buy Navajo crafts directly from the families who made them. Cameron Trading Post, a mile north of the junction of Highway 64 and U.S. Highway 89, is a great place to take a break for a meal; the motel and Native American gallery here are very good as well. North from Cameron, the colors of the Painted Desert glow softly all around. At the Tuba City junction, dinosaur fans may wish to detour five miles east on U.S. Highway 160 to see tracks just north of the highway. Continuing north on U.S. Highway 89 through Navajo lands, the long line of the Echo Cliffs rises high on the east before you turn onto U.S. Highway 89A and drop down to Navajo Bridge across the Colorado River. It’s worth stopping at either end of the bridge to walk across the old span here and admire Marble Canyon. Lees Ferry and Lonely Dell Ranch lie about five miles north, allowing you to take in some history and see a bit of Glen Canyon. The highway then skirts the base of the well-named Vermilion Cliffs before starting the long climb up to the pine-forested Kaibab Plateau; a viewpoint on the left shortly after the climb begins has a panorama of the Vermilion Cliffs, which blaze in fiery red at sunset. Three small motels with restaurants stand beside the highway below the cliffs. At Jacob Lake, which has a lodge, campground, RV park, restaurant, and a visitors center, turn south 45 miles on Highway 67, a beautiful forest and meadow drive that heads straight for Bright Angel Point on the North Rim.

Park Practicalities

The park collects an admission fee of $20 per private vehicle ($10 per pedestrian or bicyclist) that’s good for seven days at the south and east entrances of the South Rim and at the main entrance of the North Rim. You’ll get a colorful park map and a copy of The Guide newspaper, which lists programs and sightseeing suggestions. Once you’re in the park, visitors centers, exhibits, programs, and day hiking are free. Budget travelers can save money by stocking up on gas, groceries, and camping supplies at Flagstaff, Williams, or other towns away from the Canyon; prices at Tusayan and within the park can run substantially higher.

The Grand Canyon offers too much to see in one day—you’ll probably wish to spend one or more nights in the area. In Grand Canyon Village you can stay at lodges right on the rim or a short walk back in the woods. The town of Tusayan, just outside the park nine miles south of Grand Canyon Village, provides additional places to stay. And farther south, the towns of Flagstaff and Williams offer a large selection of accommodations at lower prices; also, the little community of Valle on the way has two motels. All of these places also offer RV parks and tent sites.

You can obtain helpful trip-planning literature before your arrival by writing to the park (P.O. Box 129, Grand Canyon, AZ 86023) or visiting the official website www.nps.gov/grca, which provides a great deal of information, including news, visiting tips, hiking possibilities, and river-running opportunities. The automated switchboard (928/638-7888) connects with all park offices and offers recorded information, including a weather forecast; hearing-impaired callers use the TDD number (928/638-7804).

Groups can arrange to have weddings, get-togethers, and memorials at secluded spots on both rims; contact the park for details.

WHEN TO GO

Come any time of the year to enjoy the Grand Canyon! There’s more than a vertical mile between the Colorado River at the bottom and the highest overlooks, so you can almost always find pleasant temperatures by adjusting your elevation. The South Rim’s sights and accommodations stay open all year, so it’s nearly always on visitor’s lists. From mid-May to mid-October, the lofty North Rim opens, with very different perspectives than the South Rim. Here flowers blaze across the meadows and along roadsides, and sweet breezes blow through the conifers and aspens. Spring is the loveliest time to hike the Inner Canyon trails—the days start getting longer, and the desert flowers put on their bright colors. Summer is the time to enjoy the viewpoints on both rims, along with strolls on the rim trails and short hikes on the upper parts of the Inner Canyon trails. The mercury soars under the summer sun in the Canyon’s depths, though it’s still possible to hike here by drinking lots of water and seeking shade mid-day. Autumn brings pleasant temperatures almost everywhere, and a golden show of aspen on the North Rim. In winter, snows take over, closing the facilities at Bright Angel Point, the only developed area of the North Rim. The rest of the park remains open, though, even some of the lower-elevation North Rim areas such as Marble Canyon and Toroweap. Winter travelers need to keep an ear out for weather forecasts, as storms can make travel difficult for short periods. This is the quietest time in the park and one of the most beautiful, with a soft light and snowy ledges creating unforgettable scenes. Inner Canyon hiking can be wonderful during winter, and you may wonder why anyone would come here in the heat of summer!

WHAT TO TAKE

Unless you’re getting married at the Grand Canyon, you can leave the suits and long dresses at home. Arizonans tend to dress informally, and all of the restaurants of the region seem happy with casual attire. Nighttime temperatures get cool at the higher elevations even in mid-summer, so be sure to pack a warm jacket or sweater. In winter, bring the works—mittens, parka, insulated underwear, thick socks, and boots. At other times of year, you’ll more likely be fending off the Arizona sun, and a sun hat and sunscreen lotion with a high SPF will get a lot of use. Raingear may come in handy, especially in late summer and in winter. Mosquitoes and biting insects make occasional appearances, so it’s worth bringing some repellent along.

If you’re especially fond of the outdoors, or if you’re on a low budget, camping is the way to go. All of the surrounding towns have shops selling camping gear, and if you forget something, it’s likely to be available in the park.