SOUTHERN SIERRA

As you head south through the Avenue of the Volcanoes, the topography gradually grows less forbidding, but no less wild. Snowy peaks become less common, the horizon less jagged, the uninhabited stretches between cities longer. By the time you reach Cuenca, Ecuador’s “Third City” after Quito and Guayaquil, its Old World character fits the scenery perfectly.

  The southern highland provinces of Cañar, Azuay, and Loja contain few peaks higher than 4,000 meters but still enclose some of the most rugged and diverse landscapes in the country. Ecuador’s long-running border dispute with Peru (settled in 1998) centered around the forbidding Cordillera del Condor in the southernmost Amazonian province of Zamora-Chinchipe, and it was the region’s inaccessibility (one river was discovered only in 1947) that, along with decades of political posturing, made it almost impossible to determine where one country ended and the other began.

  Because of its historical isolation from the rest of the country—major highways didn’t connect Cuenca to Quito and Guayaquil until the 1960s—the southern Sierra has held firmly onto its roots. Cuenca’s colonial heart still beats strongly after centuries, and older ruins within the city tie it to its pre-Columbian past. Indigenous groups such as the Saraguros and descendants of the Cañaris retain traditions that predate even the Inca.

  Although the southern Sierra lacks the immense national parks and protected areas of its northern neighbors, outdoor enthusiasts can still get their fill here, from ancient Inca roads to highland lakes and cloud forests.

Catedral Nueva: Cuenca’s central park is flanked by the unmistakable sky-blue domes of the cathedral, decorated with beautiful stained glass and a gilded altar. (read more)

El Cajas National Park: Easy access to stunning alpine scenery is only an hour from Cuenca. (read more)

Ingapirca Ruins: Ecuador’s most outstanding set of Inca ruins is highlighted by grazing llamas and a sweeping view. (read more)

Podocarpus National Park: This park near Loja protects a stunning swatch of the country, from rainforest to páramo. (read more)

Vilcabamba: A visit to Ecuador’s fabled “Valley of Longevity” may or may not help you live longer, but it will help you unwind with its hiking trails, cabins, and spas. (read more)