GUAYAQUIL AND THE SOUTHERN COAST

Even though it boasts the largest city in the country, Ecuador’s southern coast—basically the west-facing mouth of the Golfo de Guayaquil—is the part most often bypassed by travelers. Those who skip it risk missing out on the new, improved version of Guayaquil, Ecuador’s economic engine (and nightlife trendsetter), as well as a generous helping of unique, albeit small and often out-of-the-way, destinations. And then there are the beaches, from nearly deserted to thronging with fellow vacationers.

  Outside of Guayaquil and the “Banana Capital” of Machala, the southern coast is a sleepy, tropical region of fishing villages, scrublands, and farms farther inland. Most of the original forest along this part of the coast has been cut in the last few decades to make room for banana and oil palm plantations, and almost all of the mangrove swamps outside of a few protected areas have been sacrificed for shrimp farming.

Malecón 2000: Guayaquil’s riverside promenade is a case study in successful urban renewal—it’s now one of the most outstanding in South America. (read more)

Parque de los Iguanas: Get up close and personal with a half-tame reptile—and keep an eye out for sloths in the trees. (read more)

Manglares Churute Ecological Reserve: Rare shorebirds nest among the mangroves in this gigantic reserve near Guayaquil. (read more)

Jambelí: Probably the most relaxing beach destination on Ecuador’s southern coast, Jambelí can be more or less yours midweek. (read more)

Zaruma: A beautiful setting and fascinating gold-rush history make this town a worthwhile side trip from Macas. (read more)