VILCABAMBA

This small town, nestled in one of Ecuador’s most pristine corners, gained some fame when word began to spread that residents lived longer—sometimes much longer—than usual. Although further study has somewhat debunked the “Valley of Longevity” theory, Vilcabamba wouldn’t be a bad place to grow old, and its gorgeous setting and tranquil pace of life have taken over as its main draw. Set at the intersection of five valleys, Vilcabamba enjoys clean air, mild weather, and hiking, biking, and horseback-riding options in every direction.

  From the days of hippie guru Johnny Love Wisdom’s failed University of Life, Vilcabamba (pop. 4,000) has had to make room for legions of wanderers drawn by the undeniably healthy atmosphere. The 20th century arrived a little late here—horses are still as common as cars in the streets—and as a result the town has had to cope with significant changes in the last few decades. Along with electricity, running water, and sewage systems, Vilcabamba has seen a rise in crime, along with health problems such as cancer and heart disease. In a sad irony, residents of Ecuador’s “Valley of Eternal Youth” are dying younger than ever before.

  Add to that the legions of backpackers who scribble Vilcabamba next to Otavalo, Baños, and Montañita on their must-see lists, and you have a beautiful place balanced on the edge. It’s one of those places travel writers hesitate to describe too lovingly, lest it become loved to death. By all means come, inhale the air, ride a horse, leave a little healthier—just please, tread lightly.

Entertainment and Events
Vilcabamba isn’t the after-hours center of southern Ecuador. Catch live music at El Jardín in the Hostal Jardín Escondido, on Sucre near the plaza. Sonic’s (Toledo and Hatillo) is—thankfully—the only nightclub in town. The cultural center on Montalvo shows DVDs and offers food in a friendly atmosphere.

  Wherever you find yourself after hours, though, that glazed look in the eyes of your fellow partiers might not just be too much aguardiente, but rather the hallucinogenic (and illegal) effects of the endemic San Pedro cactus, which was once one of the town’s main draws for the mood-altering inclined.

  In late February, Vilcabamba’s annual festival brings visitors from throughout southern Ecuador for a long weekend of music, dancing, horse-riding competitions, and general revelry.

Recreation and Tours
The best and cheapest recreation option in Vilcabamba is hiking. A good place to start is one of the three drinking-water plants in town, where Vilcabamba’s reputation for longevity is bottled for those unfortunates in less balmy climes. Along with Vilca Vida and Kastal, the Vilcagua spring water is said to have beaten out Perrier and Evian in an international tasting competition.

  Maps and trail descriptions for various hikes, including a day hike along the Río Uchima, are available at the tourist information office and the Hostal Madre Tierra. That odd-shaped peak that dominates the valley to the west is called Cerro Mandango (Tripe Mountain). To climb it, head south out of town past the bus station and the cooperativa sign. A trail leads uphill to the right—you’re on the right track if you have to pass through a gate; ask for the sendero al cumbre de Mandango (trail to Mandango peak). One hour uphill through forest and cow pastures brings you to a hilltop cross overlooking the town, but the real summit isn’t for another hour. Afterward, it’s possible to descend north into the valley of Río Vilcabamba, then head east toward Madre Tierra and the main road.

  Other trails lead to the Agua de Hierro Springs and viewpoints on the eastern side of the valley. To get into the forest, head to the Cabañas Rio Yambala (Charlie’s cabañas), where you can climb to viewpoints, swimming holes, and waterfalls on your way to Las Palmas Reserve and Podocarpus National Park. The IGM 1:50,000 Vilcabamba map covers the area.

  Day-long horseback rides are one of the most popular diversions in Vilcabamba. They usually cost $3–7 pp for a four-hour trip and up to $75 per day for three-day excursions, and should be arranged at least the day before. Trips can be set up through most hotels or through one of the many private guides in town. Resettled Kiwi Gavin Moore runs Caballos Gavilan (Sucre between Vega and Agua de Hierro, tel. 7/2580-281, gavilanhorse@yahoo.com) and offers excursions ranging 1–3 days to his cloud forest cabin for about $30–35 pp per day. His tours have received enthusiastic kudos.

  Many hotels have mountain bikes for guests to use, or you can rent them from La Terraza (Vega and Bolívar) by the hour ($2) or day ($10).

  After two decades guiding in the Galápagos, Orlando Falco of the Rumi Huilco Ecolodge moved to Vilcabamba and began leading trips into the wilds of the southern Sierra. He’s an ecologically minded, knowledgeable naturalist guide who leads trips of different lengths and difficulty into the rainforest and Podocarpus National Park. He provides English-speaking guides and transportation for $25 pp per day, including lunch and the park entrance fee. Avetur (tel. 7/2580-686, www.vilcabamba.org), in the Hostal Valle Sagrado, organizes local guides for two- to three-day ecotours to a refugio in Podocarpus.