Laguna Cuicocha

This distinctive lake is one of the most visited in Ecuador thanks to its beauty and easy access. At the foot of Volcán Cotacachi, 3,070 meters up in the Andean páramo, this icy crater lake is full of azure water so clear you can see the caldera’s steep sides plunge almost straight down into the depths. No outlet for the lake’s water has ever been found. The two islands that huddle in the center, Teodoro Wolf and Yerovi, are separated by a narrow channel known as the Canal del Ensueño (Dream Canal).

  A visitors center (11 a.m.–3 p.m. Tues.–Wed., 9 a.m.–5 p.m. Thurs.–Sat.) overlooks the water, with exhibits on the ecology, geology, and human history of the lake. Just down the hill, the Muelle Restaurant on the lakeshore offers a large selection of entrées for around $3. Boat rides are available from the restaurant’s dock for $1 pp.

  A few hundred meters almost straight uphill behind the Muelle is the Restaurant El Mirador (tel. 6/2648-039), with better views and food for $2–4, including a plato típico for $2.50 and a cuy (guinea pig) special for $6. From behind the restaurant, you might glimpse Volcanes Cayambe, Imbabura, and Fuya Fuya off in the hazy distance. Ernesto the owner is a recommended guide for climbing and backcountry exploration in the area, and he rents basic rooms next to the restaurant for $7 pp with hot water.

  From here a lovely trail winds around the lake with views of Cotacachi and the islands. The hike takes 4–6 hours, so bring water, sunscreen, and sturdy boots. Tour groups often come to El Mirador, and it’s a good place to meet people to hike around the lake with or share a truck back to Cotacachi. Driving from Cotacachi, take a left at the park entrance gate and follow the road uphill.

  Buses run regularly from Otavalo to Cotacachi and Quiroga. From Cotacachi, take a left at the last traffic light in town on 31 de Octubre, and follow the road west through the town of Quiroga to the park entrance gate near the Laguna Cuicocha. From Quiroga, you can also hire a private truck from the main plaza for about $3, or tackle the two-hour uphill hike on foot. The scenery on the way to the lake is spectacular.