Hacienda Cusín

Outside of the town of San Pablo del Lago is one of the most famous and luxurious country inns in South America. Built in 1602, the Hacienda Cusín (tel. 6/2918-013, fax 6/2918-003, hacienda@cusin.com.ec, www.haciendacusin.com, $86 s, $120 d) is the oldest in the country, named after a young local warrior who fought bravely against the Inca. Situated in a wide, scenic valley just south of Imbabura at 2,400 meters, the hacienda is a relaxing, Old World-type of place where llamas and sheep graze in the shadows of avocado trees. Old stone walls topped with moss encircle two acres of gardens, which bloom continuously in the mild climate. Hummingbirds can’t seem to believe their luck in the forests of bougainvillea, belladonna, orchids, and foxglove.

  Twenty-five rooms are spread over seven guest houses, all with private bathrooms and garden views. Some have bathtubs and fireplaces. Fifteen garden cottages echo the white walls and terra-cotta tile roof of the main building. This ancient edifice, decorated with colonial antiques and tapestries, houses the game room, conference room, and library graced by French windows. The outstanding restaurant seats 40 under a leather ceiling. Food is served on carved wooden plates in front of a log fire. Horses are available to rent, and many kilometers of trails wind into the hills and fields.

  Rates include breakfast. Contact the hacienda in the U.S. through Myths and Mountains (tel. 800/670-6984, www.mythsandmountains.com).