¡VIVA LA REVOLUCIÓN!

Many a traveler to Cuba arrives, and/or departs, toting a T-shirt emblazoned with the world-renowned image of Che. That doesn’t necessarily indicate a fondness for Castro or socialism. Still, thousands of visitors do arrive every year to pay homage to the revolución. Numerous North American and European organizations offer “solidarity” tours, often with a work component in which tour participants contribute labor to a local community, if only for a day. These tours are designed to show you the positive side of the Revolution, and most participants are already firmly enamored of the socialist system and its successes in education and health. A few make a pilgrimage along the revolutionary trail. Whatever your politics, following the footsteps of Fidel Castro & Co. from youthful zealots to eventual power makes for a fascinating historical journey.

Day 1

Arrive Havana’s José Martí International Airport; transfer to a hotel or casa particular in the Habana Vieja or Vedado districts.

Day 2

Start the day with a visit to the Museo de la Revolución, housed in the former presidential palace of corrupt dictator Fulgencio Batista, whom the revolution overthrew. Of course, you’ll want to spend some time viewing the other fascinating sites nearby. In the afternoon, your tour of Habana Vieja should include the Museo Casa Natal de José Martí, birthplace of the national hero whom Fidel Castro named the “intellectual author” of the revolution; and Museo de Che, in Fortaleza de la Cabaña.

Day 3

Today, concentrate your sightseeing around Vedado. Must-see sights include the Museo Abel Santamaría, a former apartment that was the secret headquarters for Castro’s 26th of July Movement; the university, where the Escaleras (steps) were a venue for clashes with Batista’s police; Galería 23 y 12, where Castro first announced that Cuba was socialist; and Plaza de la Revolución, the seat of Communist government.

Day 4

Head west from Havana to Pinar del Río Province to visit Cuevas de los Portales, used as Che Guevara’s command center during the “Missile Crisis.” Continue to Viñales to visit the tobacco fields and overnight.

Day 5

Depart Pinar del Río along the Autopista for the town of Santa Clara, setting for the seminal battle that toppled the Batista regime. Your tour of town should include the Tren Blindado (a troop train destroyed by Che Guevara’s troops) and the Monumento Ernesto Che Guevara and, below it, the Museo de Che, devoted to the Argentinian revolutionary whose remains are interred here.

Day 6

A long day’s drive today along the Carretera Central to reach Holguín, with time for exploring the colonial heart of the city.

Day 7

Leaving the city, take Avenida Simón Bolívar, lined with monuments to nationalist and revolutionary heroes, including a pop-art rendition of Che. Your destination is Sitio Histórico Birán, Fidel Castro’s birthplace and home into adolescence. Afterwards, continue via Palma Soriano, arriving in Santiago de Cuba in the afternoon.

Day 8

First stop today is Cuartel Moncada, site of the attack in 1953 that launched the revolution; today the former barracks holds the Museo de la Revolución. Nearby is the Museo Abel Santamaría, named for a prominent revolutionary tortured to death following the failed attack. This afternoon, tour the historic town center, including Parque Céspedes (where Fidel Castro gave his victory speech after Batista was toppled); the Colegio Jesuita Dolores, where Fidel attended school; and the Museo Lucha Clandestina, recalling the clandestine war in the cities.

Day 9

Head out to Siboney to visit the farmhouse from where Castro and his revolutionaries set out to attack the Moncada barracks. The route is lined with monuments to those who died in the attack. Afterwards, head into the mountains to Mayarí Arriba and the Museo Comandancia del Segundo Frente (Museum of the Second Front) and the nearby mausoleum. Return to Santiago for the evening.

Day 10

Head west along the coast via Chivírico — a stupendous drive! Beyond Ocujal, visit La Comandancia de la Plata, which regales the tale of the revolutionary war in the mountains. Nearby, in Pilón, call in at the Casa Museo Celía Sánchez, from which the revolutionary heroine ran the secret supply line to Fidel’s army in the Sierra Maestra. Continue to the Parque Nacional Desembarco del Granma, site of the landing of Fidel’s army in 1956. Overnight in Niquero.

Day 11

Call in at Media Luna to view the birthplace of Celía Sánchez en route to Manzanillo. Here, visit the statue of Celía then continue via Bartolomé Masó to Santo Domingo, where a small museum features a 3-D map of the war in the Sierra Maestra. Overnight in Santo Domingo.

Day 12

This morning hike to Comandancia de la Plata, Fidel’s headquarters deep in the Sierra Maestra. In the afternoon, continue via Bayamo, arriving in Las Tunas in late afternoon.

Day 13

A long drive back to Havana today via the Carretera Central and Autopista.

Day 14

Transfer to the airport for your departure flight.