THE BEACH LOVER'S TOUR

Cuba boasts glorious beaches. Many feature sugarcane-white sands shelving into waters of Maxfield Parrish blues. Most are scattered along the north shore, with concentrations immediately east of Havana; in Varadero; Cayo Largo; the Jardines del Rey (Ciego de Ávila and Camagüey Provinces); and Holguín. Many of the best beaches have been developed for tourism and at most, ordinary Cubans are not allowed. The south coast has relatively few noteworthy beaches; most are of an unappealing taupe color and backed by mangroves. Some beaches are used by marine turtles for laying eggs, although few of these are accessible to tourists and equally few are otherwise appealing for nature viewing, other than snorkeling and scuba diving. Likewise, surfers will find very few beaches where the waves come rolling in, with the exception being around Baracoa. Swimming requires caution, as many beaches are known for riptides, dangerous undertows that can sweep unwary swimmers out to see. Arrive with plenty of mosquito repellent, and avoid most beaches at dusk, when minuscule but ferocious no-see-ums are active.

By combining the following beaches on a 10-day holiday, you’ll pass through much of Cuba’s most beautiful scenery.

Day 1

Arrive Havana’s José Martí International Airport; transfer to a hotel or casa particular in the Habana Vieja or Vedado districts.

Day 2

This morning, make your way to Playas del Este for a day with the locals at the capital city’s beaches. The best section by far is Playa Mégano. Return to Havana for the evening.

Day 3

Hire a car or transfer by Víazul bus or train then taxi to Cayo Coco. You have a wide choice of all-inclusive resorts, all supplied with water sports from Jet Skis to Hobie Cats.

Day 4

Relax all day on Cayo Coco, perhaps with time for some scuba diving.

Day 5

If you arrived in Cayo Coco by bus, rent a scooter or car for a day excursion to neighboring Cayo Guillermo, where the best of several beaches is Playa El Paso.

Day 6

With your hired car (there are plenty available on Cayo Coco), head east to Cayo Sabinal. After the luxe of Cayo Coco, Sabinal might seem like a come-down, but I adore its reclusive setting, with only a collection of extremely rustic huts for accommodation, and a simple thatched restaurant where basic seafood is served. Scuba divers might want to skip Sabinal and head the short distance to Playa Santa Lucía, renowned for its spectacular marine life.

Day 7

Today, head west via the Carretera Central and the cities of Camagüey, Ciego de Ávila, and Sancti Spíritus. Arrive in Trinidad in the late afternoon, with time to explore this quintessentially colonial city.

Day 8

This morning you’ll want to explore Trinidad some more before making the short journey to nearby Playa Ancón. The scuba diving here is superb, and there’s a dive shop at the Hotel Playa Ancón. Return to Trinidad via the small beach at Boca, where the mood is entirely different. Though the beach is less appealing, the setting across the bay, with the Sierra Maestra as a backdrop, is fabulous, and the scene is lively, as Boca is the beach for trinitarios.

Day 9

Today, return to Havana.

Day 10

Transfer to the airport for your departure flight. Or, if you choose to extend your stay, fly to Cayo Largo for one or two days at this tiny cay where the beaches are as good as any in Cuba. There are plenty of water sports, but no Cubans are allowed.