Sancti Spíritus

Sancti Spíritus Province is on virtually every visitor’s list. Justifiably so, for its southwest corner is uniquely endowed. Trinidad—Cuba’s best-preserved colonial city—counts among the triumvirate of preeminent destinations in Cuba, along with Habana Vieja and Valle de Viñales. In fact, many a visitor follows an itinerary that triangulates these three places. No visit to Cuba is complete without a visit to Trinidad, a mellow charmer whose unique combination of quintessentially 18th-century architecture, breeze-swept hillside setting, and pickled-in-aspic way of life are irresistibly charming. In addition, this UNESCO World Heritage Site lies both in the lee of the Sierra Escambray and within a 10-minute drive of Playa Ancón—the most beautiful beach along the entire southern shore. Although the Sierra Escambray lies mainly within the provinces of Cienfuegos and Santa Clara, most of the trails and accessible sites of interest lies on the eastern side, within Sancti Spíritus’s Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes, most easily accessed from Trinidad. As if that weren’t enough, the town also boasts the broadest range of casas particulares in Cuba and happens to be a leading center of santería and Afro-Cuban culture, with a tremendous nightlife. Trinidad grew to colonial wealth from sugar, and the nearby and scenic Valle de los Ingenios (Valley of the Sugar Mills) recalls that era.

The eponymous provincial capital city struggles to compete. In fact, as provincial capital cities go, it’s poorly endowed with sites of interest. To the north, rolling hills flow down towards the coastal plains, farmed in sugarcane and without beaches of noted appeal. The southern coastal plains are mostly inhospitably marshy, with few villages or roads, although bird-watchers, anglers, and nature lovers are served by a number of wetland reserves.

Trinidad’s Plaza Mayor: This plaza is at the heart of the most complete colonial town center outside Havana, with a fabulous yesteryear ambience and lively Afro-Cuban traditions. There’s also a fine choice of casas particulare. (read more)

Playa Ancón: Close to Trinidad, this beach offers scintillating sands and excellent scuba diving close to shore. (read more)

Valle de los Ingenios: Planted in sugarcane, this valley is noted for its ruined colonial sugar mills and is best explored on an antique steam train excursion. Stop at Torre de Manaca-Iznaga, a former sugar estate with a fine restaurant, charming setting, and a 43.5-meter-tall tower that can be climbed for the magnificent views. (read more)

Gran Parque Natural Topes de Collantes: This national park hosts magnificent mountain hiking that is great for bird-watching. There are horseback-riding excursions and waterfalls and natural pools good for bathing. (read more)