Las Tunas and Holguín

Rich in history, physically diverse, and on the cusp of major tourist development, this region is as interesting as any in the nation. Holguín, rather than Las Tunas, steals the show.

Las Tunas Province forms a flat, narrow band across the island, broadening to the northeast. The capital city occupies a low-lying ridge (the Cuchilla Holguín) in the center of the province, on the eastern edge of the great plains that dominate central Cuba. It is dull, unvarying terrain, mostly farmed for sugar and cattle. The scenery begins to grow more lush and interesting eastward. The province has few beaches (at last visit, only Playa Covarrubias had a hotel), and there are few sites of interest other than a modicum of historic buildings in the eponymous provincial capital.

Holguín, by contrast, is far more diverse and chock-full of things to see and do. The capital city itself boasts several colonial plazas and an active nightlife, and the hinterlands have several unique sites, foremost among them Fidel Castro’s birthplace. Holguín’s north-central shore is in the throes of touristic development, centered on Playas Guardalavaca, Pesquero, Esmeralda, and Costa Verde. Several quality all-inclusive resort hotels have opened, and long-term plans call for a golf course, cruise port, and even a theme park. Inland, the dramatic formations of the Grupo de Maniabon will have you reaching for your camera, and there are pre-Columbian museums and archaeological sites to explore.

East of Holguín city, the coastal plain narrows down to a panhandle extending along the shore. Inland, pine-clad mountains—the Sierra de Nipe, Sierra del Cristal, Cuchillas del Toa, and Alturas de Moa—rise to 1,200 meters. These mountains are nirvana to bird-watchers and hikers. The color of heated chrome, the mountains are also rich in precious minerals, notably cobalt, manganese, and nickel. The ores are processed locally, most notably at the coastal town of Moa, in the far east of Holguín Province; the immediate area is blighted by the mineral extraction industry, which may be the main reason for the prohibition on photography hereabouts.

The southern coastal plains of Las Tunas are farmed in sugar merging eventually into mangrove swamplands. Southern Holguín Province is flat as a lake, with savanna and sugar sharing the landscape. The Sierra Maestra hovers in the distance.

Plaza Calixto García: The largest of Holguín’s three plazas, this one is home to a monument and two museums of note. (read more)

Mirador de Mayabe: Magnificent valley vistas soothe you while you relax by the pool. There’s a fine restaurant, and a beer-swilling donkey to boot! (read more)

Gibara: This laid-back fishing town with fine colonial architecture makes a cool place to steep in Cuban culture. (read more)

Guardalavaca: The scorching beaches and magnificent teal-blue waters, fabulous diving offshore, and hotels ranging from budget to deluxe all-inclusives could keep you plenty happy, but be sure to make time for Museo Aborigen Chorro de Maísa, an excellent small museum and archaeological site recording pre-Columbian culture. (read more)

Museo Indocubano: Banes is home to Cuba’s largest display of pre-Columbian relics, including gold and ceramic pieces. (read more)

Sitio Histórico Birán: Fidel’s birthplace and childhood home provides fascinating insight into the boyhood background of Cuba’s enigmatic leader. (read more)