Finca El Pinar San Luis

If you want a thorough immersion in Tobacco 101 and want to learn from the master, then be sure to visit this 16-hectare private farm of Alejandro Robaina (tel. 08/79-7470; Mon.–Sat. 10 a.m.–5 p.m.), the unofficial “official” ambassador for Cuba’s cigar industry. For six generations, the Robaina family has been renowned for the excellence of their tobacco (the family has farmed their vegas since 1845). So renowned is Alejandro Robaina that the Cuban government even granted him his own cigar label (Robaina cigars come in five different strengths). There’s even a postage stamp with his visage.

Forty-minute tours (CUC2) are given. December and January are the best times to visit. Guests are received in a reception room full of photos of Robaina with various heads of state, fashion models, and other celebs on his various world tours. Cigars are not sold on the finca (local workers will sell you genuine Robaina cigars, but be prepared to negotiate hard on the quoted price, which is about the same as in stores).

To get there, turn south 12 kilometers west of Pinar del Río; San Luis is 3.3 kilometers south of the highway; turn left onto a dirt road. Ask if you need to! There are several turns along the country lanes.