COMPLEJO TURÍSTICO LAS TERRAZAS

This one-of-a-kind model village, 20 kilometers northeast of Soroa and 4 kilometers northwest of the Autopista, is touted as one of Cuba’s prime ecotourism sites. Las Terrazas (pop. 1,200; 8 a.m.–5 p.m. for day visits) was founded in 1971 and is situated in a narrow valley above the shores of Lago San Juan with mountains to every side. It lies at the heart of a comprehensive rural development project that encompasses 12,355 acres and is better known throughout Cuba as the home of the late singer Polo Montañez.

French settlers who fled Haiti in 1792 planted coffee in these hills. After the plantations failed, the local campesinos continued to fell the trees for export and eke out a living as charcoal burners. Hillside by hillside, much of the region was deforested. In 1967 the government initiated a 5,000-hectare reforestation project, employing the impoverished campesinos and providing them with housing in a prize model village. Las Terrazas is named for the terraces of trees (teak, cedar, mahogany, pine) that were planted two at a time, side by side.

The houses of whitewashed concrete are aligned in terraces that cascade down the hillside to the lake. The village community center, facing a tiny plazuela with a fountain, houses a cinema, dentists’ and doctors’ offices, a small store, a post office, and a small museum that tells the tale of Las Terrazas’ development. There’s even a rodeo ring where you can watch guajiros tussling with stallions and steers.

Rancho Curijey (tel. 082/77-8555, fax 082/77-8578), the administrative center, about 400 meters east of the village, offers a thatched restaurant and bar over its own lake with geese and an inflatable trampoline. The Centro Ecológico, a basic ecological center, gathers scientific information for the reserve. Visitors are welcome.

It gets cool here; bring a sweater.

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Cafetal Buenavista

The “Beautiful View Coffee Estate,” about two kilometers east of La Moka, preserves the ruins of a French coffee plantation constructed in 1801. The buildings have been lovingly restored. The main building is now a handsome restaurant. Behind the restaurant are stone terraces where coffee beans were laid out to dry, the remains of the old slave quarters, and, on the uppermost terrace, an ox-powered coffee grinder where coffee beans were ground to remove the husks. It is hoped that the land eventually will be restored to the point that this could again become a working coffee plantation.

It’s very breezy up here, with spectacular views over the expansive plains. Guides (CUC3 per hour) are available for local hikes.

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Ruinas del Cafetal San Pedro y Cafetal Santa Catalina

Beginning about eight kilometers west of Las Terrazas, the Sendero Cañada del Infierno follows the Río Bayate south through dense forest to the ruins of San Pedro and the sulfur baths of Santa Catalina (CUC2 Mon.–Thurs., free Fri.–Sun.). It’s easy to miss the turnoff; look for the bridge over the Río Bayate. The dirt road follows the river south two kilometers to the ruins of the French coffee plantation. The crumbling remains are overgrown, and climbing figs clamber up the walls. Midway, a faint hint of sulfur lures you downhill to the river, where natural pools encourage swimming.

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Baños de San Juan

A paved road leads south from the rodeo ring in Las Terrazas, three kilometers to the San Juan (9 a.m.–7 p.m.; CUC4 entrance Mon.–Thurs., free Fri.–Sun.) cascades and pools. From the parking lot a paved path leads over a small bridge and along the river’s edge past deep pools (good for swimming) and sunning platforms to a series of cascades. ¡Que linda! Thatched ranchitas, including a small bar selling burgers and grilled meals, sit above the falls, and there are toilets.

The Caminata El Contento trail leads from the San Juan baths to Campismo El Taburete via the ruins of La Victoria coffee plantation.

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Entertainment and Events

The two community bars, El Almacigo and Casa de Bota, down by the lake, usually have someone playing guitar. The touristed Dos Hermanos bar in La Moka is plusher but lacks life.

The Peña de las Terrazas (10 a.m.–6 p.m.), in the Casa de Cultura, shows a revolving video of Polo Montañez’s life.

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Recreation

Several poorly marked trails lead into the mountains. Two of import are the Sendero Las Delicias and the Sendero La Serafina. The former climbs Lomas Las Delicias, from where you have a fine view down the valley. The trip ends at the Buena Vista coffee plantation. La Serafina (4 km) is of particular appeal to bird-watchers. The Cuban trogon, the solitaire, woodpeckers, and the Cuban tody are common. The Sendero Buenavista also leads two kilometers to the coffee plantation.

Guided hikes (CUC18–21 per person) and bird-watching trips (CUC16–18 per person) can be booked at La Moka. The Centro Ecológico also rents guides (CUC5 per person, per hour for up to four people; flat fee CUC20 per hour for more than four).

You can rent horses (CUC1 for 20 minutes, CUC15 for three hours). Pedal-boats can be rented on the lake at Casa de los Botes (tel. 082/77-8519; CUC2 per hour). You can swim at the Hotel La Moka (CUC3).