Monteverde Cloud Forest

The 14,200-hectare Reserva Biológica Bosque Nuboso Monteverde (tel. 506/645-5122, fax 506/
645-5034, montever@racsa.co.cr, www.cct.or.cr, 7 a.m.–4 p.m., $12 admission adults, $6 students with student card, $3.50 residents, free for children under six), six km east of Santa Elena, is acclaimed as one of the most outstanding wildlife sanctuaries in the New World tropics. The preserve, which is owned and administered by the Tropical Science Center of Costa Rica, protects more than 100 species of mammals, more than 400 species of birds, and more than 1,200 species of amphibians and reptiles. It is one of the few remaining habitats of all five species of the cat family: jaguar, ocelot, puma, margay, and jaguarundi. Bird species embrace black guan, emerald toucanet, the three-wattled bellbird (an endangered species whose metallic “BONK!” call carries for almost two miles), and 30 local hummingbird species. Hundreds of visitors come to Costa Rica to visit Monteverde in hopes of seeing a resplendent quetzal (approximately 100 pairs nest in the reserve).

The reserve has kilometers of trails, sections of which are not for the weak-hearted. Parts ooze with mud; other sections have been covered with raised wooden walkways. Knowledgeable locals wear rubber boots. A maximum of 120 people are allowed on the trails at any one time. Shorter nature trails are concentrated in an area called “The Triangle.”

Longer trails lead down the Pacific slopes. Sendero Valle leads to La Cascada, a triple waterfall, and continues via the valley of the Río Peñas Blancas to Pocosol, about 20 km south of La Fortuna. It’s a full-day hike (20 km). Alternately, you can follow a three-km-long trail that begins behind Hotel Belmar and hike to the top of Cerro Amigos (1,842 meters).

Bring warm clothing and raingear. You may rent boots in many hotels and at the visitor center ($1). You can rent binoculars at the visitor center for $10 per day (plus deposit).

Although you can hike through the preserve on your own, you increase your chances of seeing wildlife if you hike with a guide. Three-hour guided tours (caminatas) are offered daily at 7:30 a.m., 8 a.m., and 1 p.m. (minimum three people, maximum nine people; $15 pp plus entrance, including 40-minute slide show). A five-hour birding tour is offered at 6 a.m. ($40–50). A two-hour night hike by flashlight is offered at 7:15 p.m. ($13). You can reserve in advance through your hotel or at the information center.

The reservations office and store at the entrance offer a self-guide pamphlet and trail map; you can also buy more detailed maps plus wildlife guides. If you want to hike alone, buy your ticket the day before and set out before the crowds. You can rent rubber boots at the store. A café serves omelettes ($1.75), burgers, sandwiches, mochas ($1), etc.

The visitor’s center and field station includes dormitory-style lodging and kitchens for up to 39 people. The dorms have shared baths with hot water. Scientists and students get priority. Rates are $27 pp including all meals.

The reserve has three basic backpacking shelters with bunks, showers, and hydroelectricity, plus propane stoves and pots and pans, but you’ll need to bring food and sleeping bag. Trail crews and researchers get priority. Rates are $3.50 nightly. Reservations are essential; the huts are locked (you pick up the key after making your reservation; see contact information, above)

A bus (tel. 506/645-5390) departs Santa Elena for the reserve Mon.–Sat. at 6:35 a.m. and 1 p.m., returning at noon and 3 p.m. ($1 each way). You can flag it down along the route.

Most hotels can arrange transportation. Otherwise you can walk up the hill: muddy when wet, dusty when dry. A taxi from Santa Elena will cost about $5 one-way, but there are reports of gouging in recent years. There’s parking near the entrance.

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Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve
This 600-hectare cloud forest reserve (7 a.m.–4 p.m., $9 adults, $5 students) is five km northeast of Santa Elena, at a slightly higher elevation than the Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve (4WD required). The reserve is owned by the Santa Elena community. It boasts all the species claimed by its eastern neighbor—quetzals, deer, sloths, ocelots, and howler and capuchin monkeys—plus spider monkeys, which are absent from the Monteverde reserve. It receives far fewer visitors. It has four one-way trails (from 1.4 to 4.8 km) and a lookout point and observation tower with views toward Volcán Arenal. At a higher elevation than Monteverde, it tends to be cloudier and wetter.

The reserve is the site of the Monteverde Cloud Forest Ecological Center (tel. 506/645-5390), a forest farm started in March 1992 to educate youngsters and local farmers on forest ecology and conservation. There’s also a visitor/information center. Guides are available, as are dormitory accommodations for students, with a laboratory, library, and kitchen. The accommodations may eventually be available to tourists. Volunteers of any age are welcome as teachers, researchers, and for maintenance work.

The foundation offers three-hour guided hikes at 7:30 a.m. and 11:30 a.m. plus a night tour at 7 p.m. ($15 for the guide). You can buy trail maps and a self-guided trail booklet—and rent rubber boots ($1)—at the information center.

The Santa Elena Cloud Forest Reserve office is in Santa Elena (P.O. Box 90-5655, Monteverde, tel. 506/645-5693, fax 506/645-5390, rbnctpse@racsa.co.cr, www.monteverdeinfo.com/reserve.htm).

Shuttles for ticket-holders leave Santa Elena at 6:45 a.m., 11 a.m., and 2:30 p.m. A collective taxi leaves Santa Elena village at 6:45 a.m., 8 a.m., 10:30 a.m., 12:30 p.m., and 2 p.m., but you must book the day before ($2 per person, tel. 506/645-5051). A regular taxi costs about $7 each way.