MANUEL ANTONIO NATIONAL PARK

Tiny it may be, but this 682-hectare national park epitomizes everything tourists flock to Costa Rica to see: stunning beaches, a magnificent setting with islands offshore, lush rainforest laced with a network of welcoming trails, and wildlife galore—all within walking distance of your hotel.

Despite its diminutive size, Manuel Antonio is one of the country’s most popular parks, with as many as 150,000 visitors annually in peak years. A few years ago the deluge of visitors threatened to spoil the very things they had come to see. In 1994, the Park Service began limiting the numbers of visitors to 600 per day (800 on Saturday and Sunday), and the park is now closed on Monday. Consider visiting in the “green” or wet season. Litter and pollution are additional problems. Pack out what you pack in.

Howler monkeys move languorously from branch to branch, iguanas shimmy up trunks, toucans and scarlet macaws flap by. About 350 squirrel monkeys live in the park, another 500 on its outer boundaries. And capuchin (white-faced) monkeys welcome you at treetop height on the beaches, where they will steal your belongings given half a chance. Some of them have become aggressive in recent years, and attacks on humans have been reported.

It is illegal to feed the monkeys. If you’re caught, you may be ejected from the park. Studies have found an increase in heart disease and heart failure among the local monkey population attributed to human foods. Do not leave food lying around.

The park is too small to sustain a healthy and viable population of certain animals. Corridors that allow animals access to areas outside the park have been taken up by hotels, so that the park has, in recent years, become an island. As a result, the titi (squirrel monkey) population is declining. The local Association of Women, Family, & Quepos Community (tel. 506/777-2020) works to save the titi.

back to top

Beaches and Trails
The park has four lovely beaches: Espadilla Sur, Manuel Antonio, Escondido, and Playita. The prettiest is Playa Manuel Antonio, a small scimitar of coral-white sand with a small coral reef. It’s separated from Playa Espadilla Sur by a tombolo—a natural land bridge formed over eons through the accumulation of sand—tipped by Punta Catedral, an erstwhile island now linked to the mainland. The hike to the top of Punta Catedral (100 meters) along a steep and sometimes muddy trail takes about an hour from Playa Espadilla Sur (also known as the Second Beach). Espadilla Sur and Manuel Antonio offer tidal pools brimming with minnows and crayfish, plus good snorkeling, especially during dry season when the water is generally clear.

At the far right on Playa Manuel Antonio, you can see ancient turtle traps dug out of the rocks by pre-Columbian Quepoas. Female sea turtles would swim over the rocks to the beach on the high tide. The tidal variation at this point is as much as three meters; the turtles would be caught in the carved-out traps on the return journey as the tide level dropped. The people also used female-turtle decoys made of balsa to attract male turtles over the rocks. Olive ridley and green turtles still occasionally come ashore at Playa Manuel Antonio.

Between bouts of beaching, you can explore the park’s network of wide trails, which lead into a swatch of humid tropical forest. Manuel Antonio’s treetop carnival is best experienced by following the Perezoso Trail, named after the sloths that favor the secondary growth along the trail. You might see marmosets, ocelots, river otters, pacas, and spectacled caimans in more remote riverine areas.

Hire a guide. A guide can show you other interesting tree species—among them, the gaupinol negro, an endemic species that is in danger of extinction; cedro maria, which produces a yellow resin used as a traditional medicine; vaco lechoso, which exudes a thick white latex that also has medicinal properties, and the manchineel tree (manzanillo), or “beach apple”—common along the beaches. The manchineel is highly toxic and possesses a sap that irritates the skin. Its tempting apple-like fruits are also poisonous. Avoid touching any part of the tree. Also, don’t use its wood for fires—the smoke will irritate your lungs.

back to top

Information
The park entrance is at the eastern end of Playa Espadilla, where you wade across the shallow Río Camaronera. Rowboats are on hand at high tide (30 cents), when you may otherwise be waist-deep.

The park is open 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Tue.–Sun. The $7 admission is payable at the ranger station (tel./fax 506/777-0654). There’s a small open-air natural-history museum and information center on Playa Manuel Antonio.

Camping is not allowed in the park. There are no accommodations or snack bars.

back to top

Cautions
Theft is a major problem on the beaches, not least by the monkeys. Don’t leave your things unguarded while you swim. There’s parking by the creek near the park entrance ($2.50 ), but security is an issue. Don’t leave anything in your vehicle.

There are riptides on Playa Espadilla.