Heliconia Island

Isla Las Heliconias (tel. 506/762-0520 or 506/397-3948, fax 506/766-6247, timryan@heliconiaisland.com, www.heliconiaisland.com, $12 admission, including drink and tour, $25 with lunch), about five km north of Horquetas, is indeed an island-turned-heliconia garden created with an artist’s eye and lovingly tended by naturalist Tim Ryan. Exquisite! The garden was started in 1992 and today boasts about 80 species of heliconia, plus ginger and other plants, shaded by almendro trees in which green macaws nest. Tim gives a fascinating spiel; among the esoteric lore Tim imparts is why we owe chocolate to heliconias and the fact that the essence for Chanel No. 5 perfume is synthesized from the Illan Illan species. The garden also includes palms, orchids, and bamboo from around the world. Needless to say, birds—more than 200 species at last count—abound (the BBC filmed Hummingbird Hotel here). You can swim in the Puerto Viejo river.

There’s a small Japanese-style lodge with restaurant serving salads, chayote soup, gazpacho, etc. Tim was adding an art gallery at last visit. A torchlit nighttime tour costs $35. A combo offers a tour and jungle float.