Destination content © Christopher P. Baker, used from Moon Handbooks Costa Rica, 5th edition.
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ESCALERAS
If you overdose on the sun, sand, and surf, head into the lush mountains inland of Dominicalito, where a series of dirt roads lead steeply uphill to Escaleras (Staircases), a forest-clad region fantastic for horseback rides at Bella Vista Ranch Lodge or hikes from Finca Brian y Emilia.
Finca Brian y Emilia
Whenever I research Costa Rica, I delight in visiting this rustic, remote, 10-hectare, economically sustainable fruit farm (Apdo. 2-8000, San Isidro de El General, cellular tel. 506/396-6206) run by Missouri transplant Brian, with his charming and artistic daughter, Emilia. Brian has about 100 species of fruit trees in production (many of them unusual species such as the mangosteen, rambutan, and the deliciously sweet but foul-smelling durian, the most important commercial fruit in Southeast Asia), as well as nuts and spices and a collection of local orchids. He will share his enlightened perspective and textbook knowledge on a fascinating tour of the mountainside orchard.
Brian sees his finca as a key to conservation with his unique method of soil improvement through subsistence agriculture. His 25 years of devotion have resulted in a serendipitous spiritual simplicity that is palpable even to the casual visitor. He is endeavoring to establish university affiliation to expand the farm’s volunteer program in such projects as reforestation of near-extinct native trees. Investors are also needed to amplify the land area of the farm so as to perpetually conserve this unique spot as a protected sanctuary.
Brian guides day visitors on hikes, including a ridgetop trail that leads to a Yosemite-like setting and connects with the Santo Cristo waterfall. Rubber boots are provided. The wildlife viewing and birding is fantastic. Even ocelots are regularly sighted. Rare chestnut-mandibled toucans and king vultures are common. A three-day minimum is required for the Santo Cristo trek, including an unforgettable overnight with the Alpizar family.
A day visit includes lunch, farm and forest tour, and a soak in a streamside rock-walled pool heated by a wood-fired oven ($25 adults, $10 for children under 12). Children will enjoy interacting with, and learning from, Emilia.
Volunteers are sought to assist with harvesting fruit and other farm tasks. Volunteers work 50 hours in a two-week minimum and pay a $60 fee upon arrival.
A 4WD is recommended for the steep 2.5-km climb from the school in Dominicalito.
Entertainment
“Movies in the Jungle” are offered alfresco at Toby & Kim’s Escaleras Cinema, in the garden of Marina Vista on Fridays.
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