CAHUITA

This offbeat village (pop. 3,000), 45 km south of Puerto Limón and one km east of Hwy. 36, is an in-vogue destination for the young backpacking crowd and others for whom an escapist vacation means back to basics. Cahuita (a combination of the Miskito words cawi—a small tree with red wood that flourishes in coastal lowlands and is used to make dugouts—and ta, which means point of land; hence, “mahogany point”) is totally laid-back and definitely not for those seeking luxuries. The village is no more than two parallel dirt streets crossed by four rutted streets overgrown with grass, with ramshackle houses spread apart.

What you get is golden and “black” sand beaches backed by coconut palms, an offshore coral reef (now severely depleted; see the sidebar The Destruction of Cahuita’s Coral Reefs), and an immersion in Creole culture. One of the most endearing aspects of life on the southern Caribbean coast is the large number of Rastafarians, with their broad smiles, dreadlocks, and a lifestyle that revolves around reggae, rasta, and—discreetly-reefer. Bob Marley is God in Cahuita. Even the postmaster has dreads.

Cahuita has struggled to recover from a lingering negative perception fed by a brief series of robberies and a murder in 1994 at Estrella, compounded in March 2000 when two U.S. female students were brutally murdered nearby (the murderers hailed from San José). The bad publicity stuck; for several years, tourists and Ticos shunned Cahuita. The police force has been beefed up and is now an effective force (there’s even a military police checkpoint on the main road north of Cahuita; every vehicle is searched). At last visit, Cahuita had regained its popularity, although it still draws predatory elements. The locals run a committee to police the community, keep the beaches clean, and generally foster improvements. And ever so slowly, Cahuita’s dirt roads are being laid with interlocking-brick paving. “Soon come!”

North of Cahuita village is a black-sand beach (Playa Negra) that runs for several miles. Cahuita’s more famous beach (Playa Blanca) is a two-km-long scimitar of golden sand that stretches south from the village along the shore of the national park. The two main beaches first won Bandera Azul (Blue Flag) awards for environmental quality in 1996. Beware riptides at the northern end of this beach. A second pale-sand beach lies farther along, beyond the rocky headland of Punta Cahuita; it is protected by an offshore coral reef and provides safer swimming in calmer waters.

Theft is a problem on the beach, Do not leave possessions unattended. Nude bathing is not allowed.

At last visit, Topo, of Magellan Inn, was planning a Herpetarium, with snakes and poison-dart frogs, intended to be a breeding center.

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Finca Miramar Ocean View Park
This private 30-acre nature park (tel. 506/750-0238), about four km south of Cahuita, midway between Cahuita and Hone Creek, offers magnificent views up and down the coast from a hilltop mirador amid forest; it’s a stiff hike uphill. Day guests get use of a small swimming pool and sun deck; an oversize chess game under a shade canopy; and hiking trails that lead into the forest. A small soda serves snacks. It’s accessed by a steep grade; 4WD is recommended. If you reserve two cabins, the place can be exclusively yours. It has a shuttle service. Entrance is free.

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Entertainment and Events
Cahuita hosts a five-day mini-Carnival—Carnavalitos Cahuita—in early December, when theater comes to town, the calypso and reggae is cranked up, and locals and tourists let their hair down. At other times, there’s plenty of night action in Cahuita, though it’s an almost exclusively male affair (as far as locals go).

The best place by far is Ricky’s Bar (tel. 506/755-0228 or 755-0185), with a Jimmy Buffett’s Margaritaville kinda feel. Run by Jenny, an affable Englishwoman, this tastefully decorated, hassle-free log and palm-thatch bar serves more than 30 killer cocktails ($2.50) and has happy hour nightly 8 –9 p.m., plus live music on Wednesday (party night) and Saturday (Caribbean Night). A beer garden was being added.

Coco’s Bar, across the street, is another lively spot. This laid-back reggae bar has colorful Rastafarian decor and draws dreadlocked Rastas; it has a plank-floored disco complete with flashing lights to the rear and a terrace to the front with chess boards. The bar has a TV, and the cocktails are powerful ($2.50). Thursday is cocktail night, Friday it has live calypso, Saturday is party night, and Sunday is ladies night. Alas, it attracts a few drug dealers and leeches who hit clientele up for drinks.

More sedate bars include Bar Hannia and Jardín Tropical, which has pool tables.

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Sports and Recreation
Turística Cahuita (tel. 506/755-0071, fax 506/755-0069, dltacb@racsa.co.cr) and Cahuita Tours (tel. 506/755-0232, fax 506/755-0082), in the village center, offer a panoply of tours and activities, including snorkeling trips ($15); bird-watching; fishing ($35); dolphin watching ($35); horseback rides (from $30); whitewater trips on the Pacuare ($85); plus trips to KeköLdi ($35) and even Boca del Toro, in Panamá ($130, three days). Open daily 9 a.m.–7 p.m. Cahuita Tours also offers scuba diving.

Mister Big J (tel. 506/755-0328) offers fishing and horseback rides.

Cabinas Brigitte offers guided horseback rides into the mountains ($40) or along the beach ($30).

You can rent boogie boards ($5) and beach chairs ($2) at Hotel Jaguar.

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Information and Services
Cahuita Tours acts as an informal tourist information office (see Sports and Recreation, above). Boutique Coco, two blocks east of Cahuita plaza, is a good spot to select a sensual batik wrap, bikini, or T-shirt. It also has jewelry and souvenirs. Super Vaz, opposite, has a boutique to the side. And Mister Big J’s, by Boutique Coco, sells books, film, and cigars.

MINAE (tel. 506/755-0060, 8 a.m.– 4 p.m. Mon.–Fri.) has a National Parks Service office in the village.

There’s a medical center at the entrance to town, on the main road from Hwy. 36.

The police station (Guardia Rural, tel. 506/755-0217 or 911) is next to the post office, at the north end of the village.

The nearest bank is in Bribrí, about 20 km farther south. Cahuita Tours can change dollars, as will most hotels. You can pay almost everywhere with dollars.

The post office (tel. 506/755-0096, 8 a.m.–noon and 1:30–5 p.m. Mon.–Fri.) is three blocks north of the plaza. There are public phones throughout the community.

Cabinas Brigitte has Internet service for $1.25 per 30 minutes, 7 a.m.–6 p.m. daily.

Mister Big J’s (tel. 506/755-0328, 9 a.m.–noon and 1–6 p.m.) does laundry and charges $4 for a full basket, with three-hour turnaround. Lavandería María (tel. 506/755-0470), at the north end of Playa Negra, charges from $1.25. Cabinas Brigitte also offers laundry service ($3.50 a basket).

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Getting There
Transportes MEPE (tel. 506/257-8129) buses depart the Gran Terminal del Caribe, in San José, daily at 6 a.m., 10 a.m., 1:30 p.m., and 3:30 p.m. The buses continue to Puerto Viejo, Bribrí, and Sixaola.

Buses depart Puerto Limón from Avenida 4, Calles 3/4, daily at 5 a.m., 7 a.m., 8 a.m., 10 a.m., noon, 1 p.m., 4 p.m., and 6 p.m. (one hour).

Buses depart Cahuita for San José at 7:30 a.m., 9:30 a.m., 11:30 a.m., and 4:30 p.m.; and for Limón at 6:15 a.m., 7 a.m., 9:15 a.m., 10:15 a.m., 11:15 a.m., 12:15 p.m., 1:15 p.m., 2:15 p.m., 3:15 p.m., 4:15 p.m., 5:15 p.m., and 6:45 p.m. Buses for Puerto Viejo depart at 5:45 a.m., 7:45 a.m., 8:45 a.m., 10:45 a.m., 1:45 p.m., 4:45 p.m., and 6:45 p.m.; and for Manzanillo ($1) at 6:50 a.m., 3:30 p.m., and 5 p.m. Buses for Bribrí and Sixaola depart at 5:45 a.m., 7:45 a.m., 8:45 a.m., 10:45 a.m., 12:45 p.m., 3:45 p.m., 5 p.m., and 7 p.m.

The nearest gas stations are at Penshurst and about 15 km southeast of Bribrí. Several locals sell gas (petrol) from jerry cans.

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Getting Around
Cabinas Palmas and Cahuita Tours operate taxis that should be booked in advance.

There are no car rental agencies.

Cahuita Aventuras, in the village center, rents bicycles ($1 per hour, $7.50 daily) and mopeds ($4 hourly, $19 daily). Turística Cahuita rents bikes for $35 per day. Cahuita Tours has bicycles for $1.25 per hour or $6 a day.