Avalon Biological Station

This 150-hectare private reserve and biological research station (Apdo 846, San Isidro de El General, tel. 506/380-2107 or tel./fax 506/771-2264, glenmom@racsa.co.cr), at 2,800 meters elevation, high atop a ridge of the Talamancas known as the Fila Zapotales, is named for the mythical kingdom of Arthurian legend where a priestess magically lifts the mists on the far side of the holy lake. Appropriately, the lodge sits in the midst of cloud forest, with spectacular views down over the Valle de El General. Time your soak for 8 p.m. or so, when the clouds religiously part.

Most of the guests here are volunteers, who come to do trail maintenance, landscaping, and all manner of chores. Bird-watching is superb (with similar flora and fauna to Monteverde), including lots of quetzals, three-wattled bellbirds, the collared trogon, and toucanets. An expert bird-watching guide costs $60 per day, while a two-hour Cloud-Forest Birding hike costs $3 pp. Hikes include a tough three-hour river walk ($6), and a five-hour slog to waterfalls ($8) with lunch in a Tico farmstead. Gwenavyer—the horse—and her equine pals will take you on rides ($5 per hour).

The turnoff is signed at Km 107, at División. It’s a three-km drive along a deeply rutted dirt road (4WD recommended). You can take a bus from Coca-Cola to San Isidro de El General; get off at División, where you can get a taxi at the pulpería (ask for Arturo).