Arranging your visit here takes some forethought. While Costa Rica looks small on a map, it can take a lot longer than you think to get from one place to another, thanks to all the mountains and valleys, and convoluted roads. Many of these roads are unpaved, in appalling condition, or lack road signs (or all of the above). It’s best to outline your trip region by region, focusing on destinations that look interesting to you, and plan on spending three or four days in each place. Trying to take in the whole country would occupy at least a month.

The country has a well-developed network of roads, and you can easily drive yourself around (it’s best to rent a four-wheel-drive vehicle). If you don’t fancy driving, you can get practically everywhere by public bus without breaking the bank. Modern air-conditioned buses serve all major destinations, as do passenger planes, which can also get you speedily between remote destinations otherwise hard to access.

The country’s strong suits are nature and active adventures (if you’re seeking world-class museums and galleries, or pre-Columbian temples, head elsewhere). The vast majority of visitors to Costa Rica come to see wildlife and/or get their adrenaline kicks in youthful pursuits. The country is a nirvana for active travelers with recreation or a specific adventure in mind: whatever your taste in recreation, Costa Rica has something for you. The most popular activities are horseback riding, scuba diving, sportfishing, surfing, and whitewater rafting.

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WHEN TO GO
Costa Rica has distinct seasons, with dry season (December–April) the ideal time to travel. This is the busiest time, however; during Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter, many accommodations are booked months in advance. The rainy season—promoted as the “green season” but known locally as invierno (winter)—runs from April through November. Prices are often lower, and it is usually easier to find vacant hotels rooms in popular destinations. The highlands can be especially delightful at this time of year. The Golfito and Caribbean lowlands, both of which can be lashed by the whip of tropical storms in the wet season, don’t have a distinct dry season anyway.

Dress accordingly.

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WHAT TO TAKE
Pack items that work in various combinations—preferably darker items that don’t show the inevitable dirt and stains you’ll quickly collect on your travels. Dark clothes tend to be hotter than khaki or light clothing. Bright clothing tends to scare off wildlife; pack khakis and subdued greens if you plan on serious nature viewing. Be sure to bring a pair of cargo shorts or pants and a photographer’s jacket with heaps of pockets.

If you’re going to be in San José and the highlands, or cloud forest destinations such as Monteverde, pack a warm sweater and/or a warm windproof jacket (a light waterproof jacket is also a good idea). The lowlands are humid and hot: you’ll want light, loose-fitting shirts and pants, which help protect you against thorns and biting bugs while you’re hiking. Denim jeans take forever to dry when wet, so pack light cotton-polyester-blend pants instead; they’re cooler and dry quickly. Ideally, everything should be drip-dry, wash-and-wear. For longer visits, pack a regular change of socks and underpants. Wash them frequently to help keep athlete’s foot and other fungal growths at bay.

Two T-shirts plus two dressier shirts, a sweatshirt and sweatpants, a polo shirt, a pair of Levi’s, “safari” pants, two pairs of shorts, and a “safari” or photographer’s jacket with heaps of pockets suffice me. Women may wish to substitute blouses and mid-length skirts. And don’t forget your bathing suit. Most travelers will not need dressy clothes. However, many Costa Ricans love to dress up for dinner or the theater, as well as for business functions. You may wish to take a jacket and tie or cocktail dress for dinners in more expensive hotels and restaurants, and for the theater. Otherwise, Costa Ricans dress informally, but always very neatly. Knee-length shorts for men are acceptable almost anywhere. Save your running shorts for the beach.

Visiting in wet season? Eschew raincoats for a breathable Gore-Tex jacket or a hooded poncho, plus a small umbrella (you can buy one in San José).

A comfortable, well-fitting pair of sneakers will work for most occasions. You’ll want lightweight canvas hiking boots with ankle protection—good against thorns—for hiking muddy trails.

Space on buses and planes is limited. Limit yourself to one bag (preferably a sturdy duffel bag or internal-frame backpack with plenty of pockets), plus a small day pack or camera bag. Avoid backpacks with external appendages: they catch and easily bend or break. One of the best investments you can make is a well-made duffel bag that can be carried by hand and on the back. A small day pack allows you to pack everything for a one- or two-day journey. Then you can leave the rest of your gear in the storage room of a San José hotel and return frequently as you travel around the country using the capital as a base.