WATERTON LAKES NATIONAL PARK

Everybody traveling to this small, rugged 526-square-km (203-square-mile) park does so by choice; tucked away in the extreme southwestern corner of Alberta, the park is not on a major highway or on the way to anywhere else. It’s bounded to the north and east by the rolling prairies covering southern Alberta; to the south by the U.S. border and Glacier National Park in Montana; and to the west by the Continental Divide, which forms the Alberta–British Columbia border. The natural mountain splendor, a chain of deep glacial lakes, large and diverse populations of wildlife, an unbelievable variety of day hikes, and a changing face each season make this park a gem that shouldn’t be missed on any trip to the Canadian Rockies.

The route to Waterton is almost as scenic as the park itself. From whichever direction you arrive, the transition from prairie to mountains is abrupt, almost devoid of the foothills that characterize other areas along the eastern slopes of the Canadian Rockies. Between the park gate and the small township of Waterton, two roads penetrate the mountains to the west. One ends at a large glaciated lake, the other at a spectacular canyon. The town is a smaller version of those in Banff and Jasper. Like those towns, Waterton holds a grand hotel built by the railway, a golf course, and a wide range of services, but the atmosphere here is very different.

Waterton Heritage Centre: This is a good place to learn about the park’s natural history. (read more)

Akamina Parkway: You’ll want to take all the scenic drives detailed in this chapter, but this one gets the nod as a must-see attraction. Why? Because when you reach the end of the road you can rent a canoe and paddle out onto magnificent Cameron Lake. (read more)

Crypt Lake: This hike is undoubtedly the most spectacular trail in the park. (read more)

Crandell Lake: If the Crypt Lake Trail is a little beyond you, or if you have a family in tow, plan on hiking up the easy incline to this lake instead. (read more)

Cruising to Goat Haunt, Montana: Taking a tour boat along Upper Waterton Lake and across the border to Montana has been the most popular activity in the park for over 50 years—and for under $30 you can do it, too. (read more)