LAKE O’HARA

Nestled in a high bowl of lush alpine meadows, Lake O’Hara, 11 km (6.8 miles) from the nearest public road, is surrounded by dozens of smaller alpine lakes and framed by spectacular peaks permanently mantled in snow. As if that weren’t enough, the entire area is webbed by a network of hiking trails established over the last 90 years by luminaries such as Lawrence Grassi. Trails radiate from the lake in all directions; the longest is just 7.5 km (4.7 miles), making Lake O’Hara an especially fine hub for day hiking. What makes this destination all the more special is that a quota system limits the number of visitors.

Book the Bus

It’s possible to walk to Lake O’Hara, but most visitors take the shuttle bus along a road closed to the public. The departure point is a signed parking lot 15 km (9.3 miles) east of Field and three km (1.9 miles) west of the Continental Divide. Buses for day visitors depart between mid-June and early October at 8:30 a.m. and 10:30 a.m., returning at 4:30 p.m. and 6:30 p.m. To book a seat, call the dedicated reservations line (250/343-6433). Reservations are taken up to three months in advance, but as numbers are limited, you will need to call exactly three months prior to be assured of a seat; even then, you should call as early in the day as possible. Phone lines are open mid-Mar.–Apr. Mon.–Thurs. 8 a.m.–4 p.m., May Mon.–Fri. 8 a.m.–4 p.m., June–Sept. daily 8 a.m.–4 p.m., and mid-Sept.–early Oct. Mon.–Thurs. 8 a.m.–4 p.m. The reservation fee is $12 per booking, and the bus fare is $15 per person round-trip. The procedure is simple enough, but to be assured a seat, it’s important you get it right: for example, to visit on September 30 (when the larch are at their colorful peak), start dialing at 8 a.m. on June 30 (with a credit card ready). Six seats per day are set aside for those who haven’t made advance reservations. They are allotted via the reservation number on a first-come, first-served basis. No-shows are filled on a standby basis by folks waiting around at the parking lot on the day of departure (generally, arrive around 7 a.m., head to the covered shelter, and you’ll be the first in line). You have the best chance of snagging a seat on the 8:30 a.m. bus, especially if the weather is bad.

All times—bus departures and reservation center hours—are mountain standard time.

Other Considerations

After the 20-minute bus trip to the lake, day hikers are dropped off at Le Relais, a homely log shelter where books and maps are sold, including the recommended Gem Trek Lake Louise and Yoho map. Hot drinks and light snacks are served—something to look forward to at the end of the day, as this is also the afternoon meeting place for the return trip (no reservations necessary).

Several overnight options are available at the lake—including a lodge, a campground, and a rustic hut—but each should be booked well in advance.

Lake O’Hara Shoreline

• Length: 2.8 km/1.7 miles (40 minutes) one-way
• Elevation gain: minimal
• Rating: easy
• Trailhead: warden’s cabin, across from Le Relais

Most people use sections of this easy loop around Lake O’Hara to access the trails, but it is an enjoyable walk in its own right, especially in the evening. Across from Le Relais, behind the warden’s cabin, interpretive boards lay out the various options throughout the valley and explain local history. Heading in a clockwise direction from this point, the trail crosses Cataract Creek, the lake’s outlet, then passes along the north shoreline, crossing gullies then reaching Seven Veil Falls at the 1.2-km (.7-mile) mark. Traversing the cool, damp, southern shoreline, the trail passes branches to the Opabin Plateau and a short detour to Mary Lake. Lake O’Hara Lodge is passed at the 2.4-km (1.5-mile) mark, from where it’s a short stroll back along the road to Le Relais.