Kicking Horse Mountain Resort

What was formerly locally owned Whitetooth Ski Area, spread across the lower slopes of the Purcell Mountains (the runs are easily spotted across the valley as you enter town from the east), is currently undergoing a massive redevelopment program slated for completion in 2007. As well as a new name, Kicking Horse Mountain Resort (250/439-5400 or 866/754-5425, www.kickinghorseresort.com) is basically being rebuilt from scratch, with $75 million invested in new lifts, luxurious ski-in hotels, condominiums, restaurants, and other facilities that will make the resort a year-round destination.

The eight-person detachable Golden Eagle Express gondola transports visitors high into the alpine late June through early September in just 18 minutes. The 360-degree panorama at the summit is equal to any other accessible point in the Canadian Rockies, with the Purcell Mountains immediately to the west and the Columbia Valley laid out below. Graded hiking trails lead from the upper terminal through a fragile, treeless environment, while mountain bikers revel in a challenging descent in excess of 1,000 meters (3,280 feet). The resort has also constructed a sanctuary for orphaned grizzly bears—an interesting diversion for visitors that is included in the price of a gondola ride. A single ride is adult $20, senior $17, child $11. A better deal is the lunchtime combo ticket for adult $29, senior $26, child $13. Mountain bikers pay $20 for a single ride or $32 to ride all day. A rent-and-ride package costs $63 for the full day, including a full-suspension bike. The gondola operates through summer Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–8 p.m., Fri.–Sun. 11 a.m.–10 p.m.

With a vertical rise of 1,260 meters (4,130 feet), 50 percent of terrain designated for experts, lots of dry powder snow, and minimal crowds, Kicking Horse has developed a big reputation since opening for the 2000–2001 winter season. In addition to the 3.5-km-long (2.2-mile-long) gondola, other chairlifts transport skiers and boarders to hidden bowls and, as of the 2002–2003 season, to a high point of 2,450 meters (8,040 feet), giving the resort North America’s second-highest vertical rise (1,260 meters/4,135 feet). Lifts operate mid-December to early April and tickets are adult $56, senior and child $24. Facilities in the base lodge include rentals, a cafeteria, and a ski school, while the summit restaurant is also open daily for lunch and Friday and Saturday for dinner. To get to Kicking Horse, follow the signs from Highway 1 into town and take 7th Street North west from 10th Avenue North; it’s over the Columbia River and 13 km (eight miles) uphill from this intersection.