Snowcapped peaks by the hundreds, glaciers and icefields, multihued lakes, rushing rivers, alpine meadows, and an abundance of wildlife make the Canadian Rockies a travel destination that is rivaled by few places in the world. Although Mother Nature dealt a winning hand to the Canadian Rockies, early governments had the foresight to protect most of the land for all time in a string of contiguous parks—each with its own unique character but combining to create one massive swath of wilderness blessed with dramatic beauty.

A northern extension of the Rocky Mountain chain running through the western United States, the region covered by this book extends north from the U.S. border for around 800 kilometers (500 miles). The spine of the Canadian Rockies is the Continental Divide, which runs the length of the range and separates the province of British Columbia in the west from Alberta in the east. Banff and Jasper National Parks, on the east side of the Continental Divide in the province of Alberta, are the best known of the parks. Originally conceived as tourist resorts, the bustling towns of Banff and Jasper serve millions of visitors annually and boast championship golf courses, world-class resorts, hundreds of restaurants, and international shopping. Two more national parks, Kootenay and Yoho, lie west of Banff and Jasper, across the Continental Divide in the province of British Columbia. This side of the Canadian Rockies is much less crowded, but the scenery is no less impressive, especially the area around Lake O’Hara and Emerald Lake. Together, these four national parks make up a complex geological and natural area that has been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

On the British Columbia side of the divide, Mount Assiniboine Provincial Park is favored by backcountry hikers, while at the northern reach of Jasper National Park lies Mount Robson Provincial Park, which surrounds and is named for the highest peak of the Canadian Rockies. In southern Alberta, Waterton Lakes National Park is a hidden gem that lacks the crowds of its northern counterparts, and Kananaskis Country is a preserve developed as a four-season, multiuse recreation area. Beyond the better-known parks are numerous other wilderness areas that may take a little more effort to reach, but the rewards are many—none more apparent than the opportunity to bask in complete solitude.

Most visitors arrive by road, flying in to the Canadian cities of Calgary or Vancouver or arriving along highways that approach from all directions. The region itself is laced with a modern highway system. Roads parallel the Canadian Rockies to both the east and west, with four routes climbing up and over the Continental Divide to provide links between the provinces and access to high alpine elevations. The most spectacular drive in all of the Canadian Rockies is the Icefields Parkway, which runs through an inspirational mountain environment surrounded by glaciated peaks and alpine lakes.

The national parks of the Canadian Rockies are filled with tourism infrastructure—world-class resorts, golf courses, convention centers, multistory car parks, and more—which, on the surface, seems to work against the national park’s mandate. But the situation is unique, since the parks have grown from what was originally a moneymaking exercise. For many visitors, the opportunity to vacation in a wilderness setting without sacrificing the amenities of a resort destination is unequaled. Nowhere is this more apparent than in the town of Banff (population 7,700), the largest urban center in any national park in the world.

For those who want to get closer to nature, total wilderness is just steps away from the bustle of Banff, Canmore, and the other towns of the Canadian Rockies. The ideal way to immerse yourself completely in a mountain experience is to rise early and spend your time away from the towns—visiting the region’s natural highlights, many of which are road-accessible, others requiring a hike to reach. Ideally, you would then retire to your cabin accommodation or campsite and spend the evening around a roaring fire planning your next day’s adventures.